Tarot T810 build log

Dylan M

Which Switch...
For Naza it is almost worth investing in the iOSD mk2 for datalogging feature. Then you can check voltage running on landing to what it comes back to after resting. Keep in mind you still don't want to push your lipos too hard.

The way you ran your power connection to Naza is it running the PMU off a BEC?

Also, I hate to be the bearer of bad(expensive) news but I wouldn't fly with any CF prop that has any scratches like that... The last thing you want is that prop giving way on you mid flight... Trust me, it is cheaper to just buy new props than a whole new rig.

Strongly recommend against the tying copter down method, but to each their own... lol
 

Dylan M

Which Switch...
What do you guys think would be the max payload weight to still get 10+ minutes of flight time out of one of these? I'm eyeballing a Gremsy H3 gimbal to carry a GH4... not sure if that would be too much or not.

Will the H3 be able to handle a GH4? If so that's a pretty light payload...
 


For Naza it is almost worth investing in the iOSD mk2 for datalogging feature. Then you can check voltage running on landing to what it comes back to after resting. Keep in mind you still don't want to push your lipos too hard.

What is too hard? 3.3 V/cell?
iOSD is on shopping list for future

The way you ran your power connection to Naza is it running the PMU off a BEC?

No, I have a direct 22V input from the power distribution board to PMU

Also, I hate to be the bearer of bad(expensive) news but I wouldn't fly with any CF prop that has any scratches like that... The last thing you want is that prop giving way on you mid flight... Trust me, it is cheaper to just buy new props than a whole new rig.

I was considering the same option, just want to check that I'm not too paranoidal :)
 


One more question. I configured my Futaba T8J according to this video
How necessary is keeping one channel reserved to gains adjustment? Should I do it just ones and then use this channel for smth else? Or should I adjust gains every time when I change loading?
 

eskil23

Wikipedia Photographer
Once trimmed in there should not be any beed to change the gains unless you change the center of mass or all up weight.

I don't save any channels for gain adjustment. I plan on using the BTU for that.
 

One more unclear thing
I'm using Walkera Tx 5804 25mW video transmitter and Walkera Devo F4 as cameraman monitor/camera control. They are equipped with Boscam Cloud Spirit antennas. Video quality is, well.. far from optimal, let's say. For the pilot, I'm using FlySight Black Pearl RC801 monitor, and quality is the same. Should I change video transmitter to smth better? (25mW is limitation in Finland)

P.S. Picture from Walkera LadyBird (5805 transmitter) seem to be better (but with rather short range)
 


Motopreserve

Drone Enthusiast
What is too hard? 3.3 V/cell?
iOSD is on shopping list for future

You want to follow the 80% rule to make sure you don't over-deplete your batteries. The lowest you'd want to go is 3.36/cell. But honestly, these things are expensive, and keeping it even safer is a good idea for battery health. I typically land around 3.65v-3.7v/cell.

Having telemetry to tell you mAh consumed is really helpful. Ideally, you still want to track your charges/discharges at home, because this helps you track the health of the battery - especially if your charger can read internal resistance.
 

I typically land around 3.65v-3.7v/cell.

Having telemetry to tell you mAh consumed is really helpful.

Do you land at 3.7v/cell measured UNDER LOAD or on the ground?

I'm thinking about DJI iOSD mini, don't see reasons to buy the full one for triple price. There was also a link to mAh meter earlier in this thread, but I don't quite understand how to read it during flight
 

Motopreserve

Drone Enthusiast
Not under load. It pops back up to about that when it rests for a bit.

I'm not sure if the mini has the same readout as the more expensive model - but it probably does have your voltage.

I think the consumption meter mentioned is a telemetry module that is for the Taranis radio. The Taranis allows you to monitor many things that aren't available on other radios, or if it is, is MUCH more expensive.
 

fltundra

Member
Do you land at 3.7v/cell measured UNDER LOAD or on the ground?

I'm thinking about DJI iOSD mini, don't see reasons to buy the full one for triple price. There was also a link to mAh meter earlier in this thread, but I don't quite understand how to read it during flight
Your going to need both. iOSD is only going to give you voltage. You can also just run a simple current/voltage sensor.
I fly with SuperX osd, Unisens-E, and Frsky lipo sensor with multiple alarms. With my current setup I always reach 80% mark way before I get anywhere near 3.6v. At 5800 mah used out of my 4S7000mah. I am at 3.68- 3.69 under load and 3.71.at rest.
 


Motopreserve

Drone Enthusiast
Like tundra says - just one reading doesn't give you the whole picture. You don't actually NEED any of these things. You could just do test flights with a voltage alarm and document the data on landing, as well as when you recharge the batteries. Then you use the timer in the radio for a given battery.

But that is not nearly as nice and easy as having the read outs and alarms/sensors onboard while flying.
 

fltundra

Member
therefore went for futaba.
That's why I suggested the Unisen-E, knowing it works with both futaba and frsky and a few others.
It's really not that expensive for what you get. And in combo with the lipo sensor, still less then an osd and your getting brushless motor rpm, altimeter, vario, watts, volts, amps, and MAH.
I flew 8 months before I purchased an osd.
 

That's why I suggested the Unisen-E, knowing it works with both futaba and frsky and a few others.

I assume, one needs fancier Futaba model which supports telemetry.

I've ordered also iOSD mini, going to perform some research as Motopreserve suggested. Writing down voltage under the load, after landing and consumed mAh upon recharging. After getting enough data points, i'll be able to make conclusions.
 

jhardway

Member
Hey Guys I am just getting caught up on this feed and looking through it I can throw in a few things. I have built a few 810 and for what I have had with the copter I can say this. Over all its a very good design, if flies great, and to me its a work horse, I have had it up in winds over 25mph, I have had it carry about 3lbs of payload and have not had any issues.

Currently I have 15 inch collapsible props, and with 2 x 5300mah I am getting 16min of safe flight time before needing to land. When it comes to voltages on the batteries, for my T810 the voltage is not an issue if I fly my copter right down to 21 volts under load, its a perfect result for 80% used.

With that said I also have bigger copter, a Tarot x8, and that one is 21 lbs loading at takeoff, when flying if I fly it down to 21 volt under load, when I recharge the battery its only takes in 60% of capacity, I did contact a few battery companies and asked about flying the voltage down to below the 21 volts (or 3.5volts per cell), they told me that if you fly to 3.4 volts that is fine, 3.3 is OK but not advise able, and 3.2 will cause the battery damage. In my case if I fly it down to 3.4 I obtain my 3.7 per cell not under load and it take about 80% of capacity to recharge the battery. All good stuff.

About the flipping two things first is on the first flight video, in a way to me the copter looks like its a little to light for the situation, if that is true unstable landing will happen, and you will see in flight, rock just like it did when you give it an input and let off the sticks, it will get in an over compensating teetering. My guess is if you tie a 3lbs weight on the bottom you will have a different result.

Also the landing gear is long so the higher off the ground it is the more prone to tip some. if you have it a little unstable and you land at a bad angel (it will not take much) then you could have it tip. I also bet if you add weight to it you will have much better landings

Here is a clip of one of my copters and it was to light, I could not figure out what was going other then it may be to light, so after tying a 5lb weight to the bottom the issues went away. The clip show what it look like when its to light.


At the end of the day for my 810 here is a clip of it working when you get it dialed in.


and this is a clip of the copter in flight how nice it will fly.


I know there is a lot here but I hope some may help in the questions .

over all I think its a great design and for a build I find it a very versatile craft.

best Jack
 

Dylan M

Which Switch...
I assume, one needs fancier Futaba model which supports telemetry.

I've ordered also iOSD mini, going to perform some research as Motopreserve suggested. Writing down voltage under the load, after landing and consumed mAh upon recharging. After getting enough data points, i'll be able to make conclusions.

This is a good idea. it is always good to know how much juice you're putting back in the lipo. Also, like Jack said it sometimes helps to fly with a 'dummy weight'. also helps before you throw an expensive gimbal on there.

The main reason for getting the iOSD mk2 is that is will provide blackbox type datalogging. That said, I prefer SuperX built-in data logging feature 100x's better.

Also I have to say I have been a fan on my Taranis... The amount of real time data is awesome.
 

Motopreserve

Drone Enthusiast
Between the taranis and the superx there is plenty of data. I think the other advantage to the more expensive OSD is possibly an addition canbus port???
 

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