Tarot 680MM Pro Help

[Chalagi]

Out of all the other forums I hope I get lucky here. This is about to drive me crazy for sure and I have tried just about every thing I can think of to solve the problem so here goes.

Whats crazy is #1 motors starts up no problem the other 5 will not. I have conductivity on both the negative and positive motor wire going to the esc's on all three motor connection plugins. I also have conductivity all around the pcb board and also have 22 to 23 volts going to each motor thru the pcb. When I use a 6-wire servo connection going from the throttle connection on the rx to all 6 motors I get nothing. I also switched out to another X8R rx and got the same thing. I can remove the motor servo wire from position #1 and then plug in motor #2 and nothing happens. These esc's and motors were moved from my X4 qaud to my Tarot along with 2 new motors and 2 new esc's which I have calibrated already and they both ran ok. I have recently downloaded and installed the new dji V2 software assistant and also installed the new V2 drivers to upgrade my Naza M V1 to a V2. Also I have calibrated all the sticks in the assistant and did the advanced calibration on the IMU and everything checks out ok. All sticks show center on the stick calibration and they are moving in the correct was.

 

[Chalagi]

My problem ended up being a bad PDB. Even thou it showed it was getting fire from the battery it was not giving fire to the motors.

 

[Chalagi]

Well I thought that the PDB was my problem but it's not. When setting up the naza assistant and I get to the motor testing my motor #1 will spool up but the other 5 will not. All motors are getting power and all connections are plugged in correctly. The sliders in the naza are moving according to the program. I can calibrate the esc's one at a time and then give them throttle and they all spool up. I connect all the motor servo leads straight to my rx and all 6 motors spin. But when I connect them to the motor side of the naza with the signal wire in the up position I get nothing.

 

[Old Man]

Can you back the software version on the Naza to what you had previously? Could e the upgrade introduced a problem. If it worked before but won't now you have to consider the change in software could be the root cause. It would not be the first time such as happened. BTW, how close are you to a major airport?

 

[Chalagi]

I'm over 10 miles from an airport. And the Naza M V1 had crapped out even before the firmware upgrade. Right now I"m trying to decide if I should get the Naza M Lite or the Naza M V2. Kinda hard to figure out what would work best on my Tarot 680MM. I do see that a lot of guys run the Naza M Lite on 680MM and up size. I do not know of a way to downgrade the firmware.

 

[Old Man]

If it was me it would be an X-Aircraft FC, ditching the Naza stuff completely. It's reliable, easy to set up and use, and expandable with simple software upgrades and additional easy to install hardware as your needs increase. You don't need to buy a new FC every time you want to step up.

To downgrade the firmware you would have had to maintain a copy on your computer or find the previous version at the DJI home site. There may be someone on this site that still has it but that might be a little long in becoming known. At least we eliminated the possibility of DJI's airport area limitations from being a possible cause of the issue, so working with a receiver but not through the FC suggests it's an FC problem.

 

[Chalagi]

Well my Naza M V1 crapped out even before I did the firmware upgrade.

 

[Chalagi]

I ordered a new DJI Naza M V2 combo and installed the new drivers and software. Connected and soldered items to th Tarot and connected everything according to the Naza M V2 manual. I connected the FC to the pc and added power to the tarot and did all the calibrations needed in the software. I then unplugged FC from the pc and disconnected to power. I took each esc one by one and did a calibration to make sure they were set correctly and then gave each esc throttle and the motors spooled up. I connected all motor wires to the naza and the gave the hexa power. Using the "CSC" on the tx I did not get the motors to spin except #1 motor. If I move M2 motor over to M1 motor slot motor #2 did not spool up. My esc's are DYS 40Amp, rx is Taranis X8R, Taranis tx. 4 motors and 4 esc's came off of my carbon core x4 650MM quad. I only added 2 esc's and 2 motors to build my hexa. And the motors and esc's were working fine on my 650MM quad.

 

[aceresco]

Hi if yu make up date pmu an controller yu neded disconet esc son time esc loss the finware programing an loss sincronitation frequency or flasing priority instalet

 

[Chalagi]

What???????????

 

[Chalagi]

I contacted AMain hobbies today and was talking to one of there techs and I explained to him what was going on with the naza. And answering some of his questions about the setup and the naza he told me to send it back to the company. He says that he thinks its a diode in the pmu that has gone bad and that's probably the cause for the problem that I"m having. So tomorrow morning it goes back to the company.and we shall see if that fixes everything.

 

[Motopreserve]

I had an issue on my tarot 680Pro very similar to this that I was told would be solved by eliminating the built-in PDB. John at AddictiveRC mentioned that some problems occur when the PDB has varying lengths of copper - causing the FC to freak out despite there being power at the motor.

I was using superx FC, and the motors would beep showing it wasn't getting correct signal. I have not been able to test with a squid yet - but it's on my short-list.

Hopefully the Naza repair takes care of your issue - but if not, might be worth soldering up a squid quick to check.

Good luck.

 

[Chalagi]

Well that was the first thing I did when I started the Tarot build. I saw how crappy the design was for the hexa so I de-soldered the wires and installed a standard pdb for the motors. The way I have mine right now makes it much easier to assemble or disassemble anytime.

 

[Motopreserve]

At least that's ruled out. I was a bit frustrated to learn that about the PDB, because I now have the added weight of the internal PDB without any benefits.

The Pro was reported to have stronger folding mechanism - so I comfort myself with that

 

[Chalagi]

Well I really don't take much stock in the folding type landing gear because they really could have done a better job of that part also. I'm thinking about buying another bottom plate and just using it for a top plate to kinda lighten the weight. The stock top plate is a tinny bit heaver than the bottom plate.

 

[Motopreserve]

I meant the other folding mechanism. The ones that allow the booms to fold in. Apparently a bunch of people snapped the ones provided on the original 680/690.

The folding LG is crap.

 

[Chalagi]

oh ok sorry I misunderstood you

 

[Chalagi]

I see some of the Tarot 680MM pro hexa with a rabbit ear type rx antenna. Have you seen those on the hexa? I use the Taranis X8R rx and it has 2 oblong type paddles for antenna and they are kinda hard to get placed correctly.

 

[Motopreserve]

I have those same x8r paddles - but I've bought some plain replacement antenna to swap out.

Haven't done it yet because I made a small brace to hold the paddles using a piece I delrin "I-bar" and C channel you can find at local hobby shops. The C channel was used to hold the wire part of the antenna in a V shape - then I glued the ends into the I-bar to hold it in place seems to work ok - Velcro holds the whole rigamarole in place.

Don't have any pics. I'll see if I can find them.

 

[Chalagi]

I will probably have to use (2) X8R rx's on the 680 because I will most likely run out of channels. I already have 8 and still have to connect and program my gimbal