Power distribution board vs power harness

Jaybeast

Member
Hey all,
Where does everyone stand on using a power harness instead of a power board? I'm leaning towards the wire harness for a new medium lift quad (3kg auw). I'm using 940kv motors and 30a escs on a 3s2p setup. Thanks.
 

Motopreserve

Drone Enthusiast
I was hoping one of the pros would hop in here - but I can tell you that from my research, many of the guys building the big expensive rigs like to hard wire the components. Theory is there are fewer components to fail. Of course you have to hard solder well, or you're no better off :)

there are a couple high end (and price) PDBs out there - typically multilevel units that stack (+& -). The key, if you opt for a PDB is to find one rated for the amount of current you'll be running. The cheap ones from HK are rated quite low (20A???).

I think they sell one rated higher too.

Mikrokopter comes with it's own PDB interested ESCs, and those have been considered high end FCs for a long while. I would think if it's worked for those, then not all PDBs can be bad...
 

SoCal Blur

Member
I have one of the stacked PDBs on my Octo. The board is rated at 400A

pdb1.jpg
 

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SoCal Blur

Member
Where is that one from???

I wish I could remember. I'd have to dig up the receipt...if I can remember where I put that... LOL.

By the way, I don't believe for one minute that this thing can really handle 400A. Maybe 250 - 300A on a good day.
 
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Motopreserve

Drone Enthusiast

There are several now mimicking the original high current PDB including the newer Super Hungry board and now this one. http://www.rctimer.com/product_1081.html
But to get most of these to fit appropriately into the tiny Cinestar hub center hole takes some reverse engineering.
There needs to be room to plug and unplug the bullets and keeping the stack as short as possible is also important.
Despite some mods as shown in the photo(s) here I decided to opt for some solid copper sheet from a local industrial park and will build again from scratch.
The concept of stacking heat sinking aluminum plate on top of overly thin copper seems ridiculous to me as any heat is the result of inadequate conductor to begin with.View attachment 18052
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jes1111

Active Member
There are several now mimicking the original high current PDB including the newer Super Hungry board and now this one. http://www.rctimer.com/product_1081.html
But to get most of these to fit appropriately into the tiny Cinestar hub center hole takes some reverse engineering.
There needs to be room to plug and unplug the bullets and keeping the stack as short as possible is also important.
Despite some mods as shown in the photo(s) here I decided to opt for some solid copper sheet from a local industrial park and will build again from scratch.
The concept of stacking heat sinking aluminum plate on top of overly thin copper seems ridiculous to me as any heat is the result of inadequate conductor to begin with.View attachment 22234
View attachment 22235
View attachment 22236
Agreed, Scott - I bought one of those "Super Hungry" PDBs from HobbyKing - never intended to fit it, just curious. I pulled it apart, had a good laugh then chucked the whole thing in the bin ;)
 

R_Lefebvre

Arducopter Developer
You can make the ultimate PDB for just a couple bucks using a couple of large solid copper washers available from McMaster.

The concept of stacking heat sinking aluminum plate on top of overly thin copper seems ridiculous to me as any heat is the result of inadequate conductor to begin with

That's hilarious, where is that? Some people will buy anything.
 

Motopreserve

Drone Enthusiast
You can make the ultimate PDB for just a couple bucks using a couple of large solid copper washers available from McMaster.

do you have any photos of that? Are you doing top/bottom style with some non-conductive center board???

good stuff here.
 

R_Lefebvre

Arducopter Developer
do you have any photos of that? Are you doing top/bottom style with some non-conductive center board???

good stuff here.

I'll have to dig around, I'm not sure. It's really simple, and looks very similar to these other ones. Yes, I just used a couple of fiberglass washers to insulate it. Also available from McMaster. And then a 1/4" nylon bolt to hold it all together.

Ah, here's a picture:

View attachment 18057

I soldered the ESC wires directly, but you could just as easily solder bullets to them. On this prototype, I used acrylic washers top and bottom. I kind of like that better anyway so you can see the connections. This setup is also super compact. Only downside is it takes a LOT of heat to solder things to it. 260W iron, or flame. That's really the point though isn't it. That's how much power this thing can take.
 

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jes1111

Active Member
I'll have to dig around, I'm not sure. It's really simple, and looks very similar to these other ones. Yes, I just used a couple of fiberglass washers to insulate it. Also available from McMaster. And then a 1/4" nylon bolt to hold it all together.

Ah, here's a picture:

View attachment 22239

I soldered the ESC wires directly, but you could just as easily solder bullets to them. On this prototype, I used acrylic washers top and bottom. I kind of like that better anyway so you can see the connections. This setup is also super compact. Only downside is it takes a LOT of heat to solder things to it. 260W iron, or flame. That's really the point though isn't it. That's how much power this thing can take.
I like that - neat, efficient, compact - better than any PDB you can buy, at any price :)
 

R_Lefebvre

Arducopter Developer
I like that - neat, efficient, compact - better than any PDB you can buy, at any price :)

Thanks. And only 5 dolla! Believe it or not, I made the acrylic washers, just cut them with a hole saw...

The wiring layout of that entire machine was really nice. I designed it from the ground up as a complete system right from the start. The Talon arm and motor mounts really suck though. Made of cheese.
 

Motopreserve

Drone Enthusiast
I like that a lot. Very simple and clean. Time to get on the mcmaster site.....AGAIN! Too many things I need and then a bunch of things I "need." :)

Move got a couple old actual soldering irons (you know, the kind that makes you want to dress up like a blacksmith!) I use for custom motorcycle cables - the ends/ferrules need the heat. I can get those pretty darn hot.
 

Here is the original Power Hungry Board...... only $275 crazy: http://www.powerhungrysystems.com/
And the copy from HobbyKing: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/...ry_Board_Multi_Copter_Power_Distribution.html

IMHO - gold plating a bad design does not make it a great design! And the concept of adding aluminum plate for heat sinking is really stupid.... if it was designed correctly it would simple have more copper.


You can make the ultimate PDB for just a couple bucks using a couple of large solid copper washers available from McMaster.



That's hilarious, where is that? Some people will buy anything.
 

Motopreserve

Drone Enthusiast
But scott, it's worth every penny to have a PDB that looks like a smiley face :)

Actually, it looks more like a confused face, which is probably what I look like right now...
 

Jaybeast

Member
So if I'm hearing you all right, you're suggesting a pdb? :)

Anyone know what the f550 integrated board is rated at? Guessing at least 180 amps since they kit it with 30 a escs


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Motopreserve

Drone Enthusiast
So if I'm hearing you all right, you're suggesting a pdb? :)
Anyone know what the f550 integrated board is rated at? Guessing at least 180 amps since they kit it with 30 a escs
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sorry, that got off track :).

I would say it's only a suggestion for a PDB, if you get the right one - which is gonna cost you. If not, you're probably better off A) making your own, or B) solder up a squid.

If you're using the f550 integrated, obviously this is moot. I haven't been looking, but I definitely don'tt recall ever reading about someone burning out the integrated PDB.
 


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