Aeronavics / Droidworx New Build Skyjib 6 Ti with retractable legs

Maverick

Maverick

Member
Quinton,

Beware of which FW version you use - there were problems with the latest ones. There was a vote on another thread, and 5.16 came out on top, although 5.20 was quite popular as well. But no Blue Tooth with these versions.

Some of us have put Align blue gel underneath the IMU, to combat the white flashes that sometimes happens at high speeds.

https://www.align-trex.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/?q=Pu+adhesive+gel

X3 is for remote gain tuning (on the fly) or gimbal tilt. Which ever you choose in the Assistant.
 

Q

Quinton

Active Member
Yeah I have some of that stuff here, think I will def use it after seeing the sporadic moror changes from vibration.
Might as well use the latest FW as I will be doing a lot of playing around slowly anyhow over the next couple of weeks, the blue tooth is actually really nice (not sure why Im not getting the motor test though)
Just realised that I now need to charge my lipos, but I dont have XT90 connectors made up, so I have crocodile clips everywhere connecting things at the moment until I get a few leads made up later.

Amazing how much cost is actually required when you jump to 6S Lipos.
Got the SkyRC ultimate Duo 440w charger, along with chargery power s600 40 Amp power supply, in hindsight I should have went with at least a 1000W Power supply, but its all a learning curve (be it an expensive one)
 

cbpagent72

cbpagent72

Member
Quinton said:
Ok that has fixed it, although Ill keep it at recommended for the motors just to arm without starting.
Thats a bit different to the Naza were recommended starts the motors.

Have the latest firmware installed and everything seems fine.
Have 1 "noisy" motor which I will need to swap out, not sure why its so noisy, all the others are fine.
Can't believe how sensitive the Wookong actually is, I was testing on my kitchen table (don't we all) and was wondering why the motors were going faster/slower even though I wasn't touching the sticks.
Discovered it was actually the vibration of the bad motor going through the table and affecting the FC.
I set a piece of vibration gel under it, and it fixed it immediately, wonder if its worth doing that when I fix it to the machine.

The x3 was set on J3 for some reason (Not used to this Futaba 14SG) usually use the T8FG but its very similar, so just set up my gains on x2 and x3 and now just need to set my Failsafe end points and should be getting there.
Also added the Bluetooth LED and even that seems to work really well with my iphone.

Only thing that isn't working on the PC or the phone is the "motor test"not sure if theres a problem there or not with the latest version?
Click to expand...


Good to hear that the motor wasn't actually bad. I bought a couple of strips of the Kyosho Zeal adhesive ( http://www.amazon.com/Kyosho-Z8006-Vibration-Absorption-Sheet/dp/B002U2GS2K ) and plan on using it under my main controller, IMU, Receiver and IOSD. It is probably overkill but I am deathly afraid of the Wookong's reported vibration issues. I also have the 14SG and I am dreading the programing. If you get the settings setup do you mind saving and sharing the setup file?
 

Q

Quinton

Active Member
I got my gel from here..along with the Futaba 14SG Combo With R7008SB..really cheap prices and next day delivery.

http://www.fast-lad.co.uk/store/product_info.php?products_id=5781

Also got a little foldable GPS holder through the other day from amazon took almost 3 weeks, cheap but with a little bit of modification will work quite well.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00EUU5646/

The Futaba settings are actually quite easy, I just followed a couple of videos online, and its all quite straight forward..ill try and find it again and post it, as I need to use it again myself.
 
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Q

Quinton

Active Member
Parcels are like buses, been waiting on 1 all week and 3 come along at the same time :)

Liquid tape, 3m Dual lock andT-Motor Carbon Props 15x5
Will be interesting to compare them to the Xoar I already have.

View attachment 14206
 

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Q

Quinton

Active Member
Dont believe this, spent last night setting up my radio, and all seems to go well.
This morning started to get ready for my maiden flight, so started to put the prop adapter bolts on, the top parts of the motor that hold the props on.
Put the 3 bolts on, and tightened them up no problems.
Came to my 5th motor, put the 3 bolts in, and tried tightening them..no way, it wouldn't tighten down on the first bolt so tried the 2nd same thing, ad the 3rd :(
Must have been a dodgy tap on thet motor as the other 5 there was no problems at all.
So Im going to have to break down again to change the motor.

Anyone else experienced anything like this, lesson learned build the motors up completely before building machine, especially anything to do with tapped holes.#
There's no way just to take the top part of the motor off is there, to replace it and save me stripping everything down again?
Its Tiger motor MT3515-15 kv400
 

rotorvista

rotorvista

Member
to remove the top of the motor undo the circlip on the bottom and remove the washer and the motor will pull apart.
 
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Maverick

Maverick

Member
It will need a fair bit of force to pull the can off, as the force of the magnets inside will be holding it. Don't lose the circlip... You'll probably have to buy a whole motor - don't think you could buy the can separately...?
 

Q

Quinton

Active Member
ianp said:
to remove the top of the motor undo the circlip on the bottom and remove the washer and the motor will pull apart.
Click to expand...

You may have just saved me a full breakdown, the circlip isnt the easiest to get off as it had no holes to fit into.
I took apart a spare one I had, and noticed what looks like glue or threadlocker inside as a blob, what would that be used for to balance it?

View attachment 14570

I will be using Xoar 15x5 props first then the Carbon Fibre Tiger Props (same size) to compare the difference.
 

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Q

Quinton

Active Member
Maverick said:
It will need a fair bit of force to pull the can off, as the force of the magnets inside will be holding it. Don't lose the circlip... You'll probably have to buy a whole motor - don't think you could buy the can separately...?
Click to expand...

You mean the circlip that went flying across the room into the cats litter tray :)
It was a spare motor I took apart, and my dealer where I purchased the motor from just told me to send it back to him.
I will be able to actually get it out without stripping down, by just taking the bottom things off and unscrewing the 2nd top plate..not something I wanted to do at this stage, but its maybe best.
The magnets weren't actually that strong
 

Maverick

Maverick

Member
Maybe the motor was never actually tapped...? Not a big job to do, save you the hassle of breaking down. But remove the can first so as not to get the filings into the windings.
 

Q

Quinton

Active Member
Maverick said:
Maybe the motor was never actually tapped...? Not a big job to do, save you the hassle of breaking down. But remove the can first so as not to get the filings into the windings.
Click to expand...

It was tapped alright, but looking at it I dont think the drilled hole was deep enough for the tap to go all the way through.
I worked as a CNC machinist for about 10 years when I was young, so know all about mass produced stuff :)
These things were probably done using a spring loaded tap, which may have stopped short. (Just unlucky)
There not much too them really but when your paying that sort of money you expect everything to be OK.
 


cbpagent72

cbpagent72

Member
Sorry to hear about that Quinton. Hopefully Tiger motors exchanges your motor without any issues.

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk
 


Q

Quinton

Active Member
All sorted now, spent this afternoon taking it apart and I even changed the boom bolts upside down to make it easier to get the crash cage off now (a good tip from another thread).
Just need to go and get a spanner to fit as the hex driver wont get past the nut on the crash cage.
Will also have to go and try and find slightly larger bolts, as when you put the battery holders on the bolts aren't actually long enough to grip the nyloc.
Also noticed another strange thing Ill have to investigate, the 12mm standoffs, they don't actually tighten fully with the screws, I bought a few longer spare packs in Maplins so may need to change them.

When I was at all this I also installed the DJI 2.4ghz datalink, which send info down to the PC in google maps..actually very impresses with it, I might have to upgrade later to the Ipad one.
Was interesting checking "north" on the PC to make sure my GPS/Compass was lined up, and it was spot on :)
Whenever I set a real compass beside it, it started to go a bit nuts and completely lost itself orientation wise on the PC.
I bought the real compass to see if the lipos and motors at full speed would effect the compass/GPS where it was located on top of the crash cage, but it seemed to be shielded really well.
 

Q

Quinton

Active Member
OK not exactly sure about this as I've never worked with plastic threads before.
But the 11mm stand offs, the M3X6mm Nylon screws that go into them, they never actually really lock (bite) when tightened, they just seem to jump up a thread when you try and get them to tighten.
I have tried this now in 3 new packets of standoffs, and they all do the same thing.
Is this normal, do you use something to lock the threads in plastic?
 

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