Gaui Need help for GAUI 500X +WKM GSP and Futaba 8FG super

[Vojec]

Hi,
Firs of all, sorry for bad english writing, not my mother language. I'm new to quads, so my knowledge is basic or even less... Reading posts all around, how to setup all that stuff together for safe fly wit gaui.
Just buy my first one, non use before, quad GAUI500X+WKM GSP F8fg and Alware 3-axis camera mount for video shooting.

Have some question...let's get started with my first post.
1. set ESC to default (GAUI manuals). Put all stuff together, S-bus (can someone please look at pictures, is it right?) and firmware update MC, calibrate sticks, set gps position and full load my quad.

2. stuck with WKM software and Futaba channel setup. First can't get rid of PMU-ERR. when I attach 4s lipo 3300mAh got this error. Any ideas??

3. I successfully set the U (Mode Control Switch) on futaba, use airplane mode, (SE) button and Fail Safe on (SF). Since I have 3-axis mount, also would like manual control of camera gimble X2 and X3. Have read that WKM support only 2, so can I set control on f8fg LD knob 3th axis (horizontal movement) servo? And how to link it to X2? Channel 6 VPP-don't know what it is mean (X3) is working and set on knob RD.

4. Cam pitch servo have very little angle 10% or less when I manual rotate it with knob RD from left-right. How to increase angle(read that savox servo have max 60 degree).

5. How to turn flash light off/on with switch, and how to link it?

6. And last. can't get start my quad. read WKM manual how to strat motors, try but unsuccessful.

Been working with GAUI for 10 days and i'm very furstrated, so please can someone explain how to on very basic way....

Thanks guys for any suggestion.

pictures:
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Vojc

 

[combatxe2]

Can't be much help I'm afraid as I don't have WKM but I'm sure someone will be along soon to help.
They are a helpfull bunch around here.
Mark

 

[Vojec]

hey thx for reply. Read again all manual from scratch and must admit that picture in my head is more clear now . But one thing is still bother me. Have connect F8TG to WKM with S.Bus wire (ESC). Turn on TX (Futaba) then quad (gaui) plug USB to MC and PC, start assist. software and notice a sign at the bottom of software window (see picture below) is on green square (MC Output Off). How can it be. I have plug in all motor to WKM in (M1-M4). futaba receiver and MC conect with S.bus ESC. Can't run motor with intelligent mode (Cut Off Type - combination with sticks). Am I missing something here? Is there somekind activation if you want use S.Bus connection?

View attachment 2545

Vojc

 

[Tomstoy2]

Don't think you are wire right at the Futaba reciever. You should only have the s-bus wire attached, what is plugged into port 8?
Plus, pull your red wires off the motor esc connectors and heat shrink a piece over each.
X1 fro pmu to x1 at mc supplys power to fc and reciever.
Turn off the voltage monitor for now, also.

 

[Vojec]

Hi Tomstoy2. You are my savior.

You should only have the s-bus wire attached, what is plugged into port 8?

I have. in port 8 is power supply to futaba receiver (read at the manual) is it right?

Plus, pull your red wires off the motor esc connectors and heat shrink a piece over each.?

4 of them? ok.

X1 fro pmu to x1 at mc supplys power to fc and reciever.

Could you explain me more like for dummies, because don't understand that. Just know what is x1 slot, pmu mc then I lost...

Turn off the voltage monitor for now, also.

ok I will.

 

[Vojec]

X1 fro pmu to x1 at mc supplys power to fc and reciever.

I think you try to say me that must pull out wire from futaba reciver cos already have power supply from MC, right?

Will do all that homework tommorow it is late. Almost forget. What about PMU-ERR?

 

[Tomstoy2]

1. power is driven thru red and black wire in the s-bus plug, so remove the port 8 wire.

2. yes, pull all 4 red wires. Make sure you heat shrink each so they don't short out onto something.

3. The black box is your power managment unit, ( pmu ). It supplys power to all your components. So the 3 pin connector from the pmu then plugs into the flight controller, ( fc ), which in turn feeds power to the Futaba reciever thru the s-bus cable.

4. Turn off the voltage monitor for now. It will fly just fine without it. It is better to use the timer on your transmitter to manage your battery pack. The way to do this is to turn your timer on for 5 minutes, ( once you get it flying ). After the timer goes off, land and unplug your battery. Charge the battery up, read how many mah's you put back into the battery, divide by 5 minutes. This gives you how many mah's per minute of flight time you burn up.
Then that the total mah capacity of your battery, minus 20% of that capacity. This gives you the total usable capacity you can safely discharge from your battery without damaging it. DO NOT exceed this 20% safety factor!
Then take the total usable mah capacity and divide it by the mah per minute burn rate. This will give you how many minutes you can safely fly. You can then adjust the timer on your transmitter for the correct flight time.
I alway subtract about 1/2 minute from this for landing, just to be safe.

Why this is better than the voltage monitor? Batterys vary with age, corroion, and a wide variety of factors. The monitor is only accurate as long as you track your battery condition constantly and update the information into the monitor. Each battery is different. Without KNOWING the condition of each battery and constantly updating the monitor, you may invaribly enter a low voltage condition far out from you without knowing it.
So, the monitor works, but needs constant attention.

Where-as, by timing your flight, when you recharge your batterys, you always see how many mah's you put back, so you know immediately when things go amiss.

 

[Vojec]

All done as Tomstoy2 say, and it works. First time after 10 days my face goes like ... Just to check also upload some img. About voltage I can say thanks for advice didn't know. You right can't always rely into hi-tech.
Now when I start motor with any of stick combination (WKM manual -see img) just motor no 3 and 4 are running 1 and 2 not even sound of them. It is maybe wrong ESC calibration (Gaui manual-img below) calibrate - marked with yellow. When release sticks motor 4 goes crazy every sec more. also notice that on throttle up motor 3 start with delay!?

View attachment 2555View attachment 2556View attachment 2557View attachment 2558View attachment 2559

Again, thanks for all support... myself will never in a wildest dream solve that puzzle.

 

[Tomstoy2]

Good to hear!

Your motor issues are deffinately in your esc programming. You are going to love this, as now I am going to have you remove all the esc connectors from the motor controller and plug the red wires back into the connectors.

Unplug all the motor bullet connector except for the motor esc that you are working on, so you only hear beeps from that motor alone.

Then, one at a time, starting with motor 1, plug the connector into port 3 of the Futaba reciever.

Power up the quad, ( props off, of course ), move the transmitter throttle stick to the top position, power on the transmitter and as soon as the transmitter and reciever bind and the esc arming beeps complete, but before the programming beeps start, move the throttle stick down to the bottom position. The esc now knows high and low stick.

Power back off the transmitter, move the stick back up to the top, power back up the transmitter and wait until the programming beeps are done. You are now in programming mode.


Set the esc programming with 2 changes made from your yellow high-lighted area.

1. make batttery type NiMH/NiCd

2. motor timing medium

It is important that you complete step 8 in the programmin, exiting it, or your program changes will not be saved.


After setting each esc, check your motor rotation direction is correct as per the DJI manual. When rotation is correct, ( by switching 2 of the 3 motor leads ), unplug the bullet connectors again and identify exactly where each connector is attached, so, once again, you are only working on one esc/motor/ beeping at a time.


When all motors have been programmed correctly, then slip over a small piece of heat shrink on the bullet connector, reconnect the bullet and heat shrink it.
This prevents a bullet from accidentally becomming unplugged.

Then remove the red wire, once again, and plug the esc connector into the correct port of the motor controller.

This should take care of your motor issues.

 

[Vojec]

Hi and big thx again. You are the man.

The esc now knows high and low stick.

when ESC programing miss that step. will do it again, with pleasure.

1. make batttery type NiMH/NiCd

But I'm using Lipo 4s batteries?

It is important that you complete step 8 in the programmin, exiting it, or your program changes will not be saved.

I leave programming from step 3 (Set Item Value) directly... Will do now as you said.

Will post progress...

 

[Tomstoy2]

I run 4s, too. Put it as NiCd.

Make sure you exit the programming mode thru step 8 to save programming.

 

[Vojec]

I did as you told me on ESC programming. Still no sound from motor 1 and 2. but 3 and 4 running coordinated and smooth. Then did some test and replace position (3 and 4 motor and put into M1 and M2) if maybe with WKM something wrong. when start 3 4 motors on new positions they worked smoothly. Then connect motor 1 directly to Futaba reciever and done ESC programming again. when done start motor 1 to see rotor direction and work like sharm, but when plugin back into WKM M1 slot not work. Did also red wire thing. Really don't know how to go on. Is it maybe red wire thing from PMU 3 pin connector to MU???
After ESC programming must do stick calibration on WKM software assistant or not?

 

[Tomstoy2]

Hmmm, ok, let see if I understand what you said.

Each esc programmed just fine when hooked up individually to the Futaba reciever, plugged into port 3.
At this time each motor worked, you deffinately heard the beeps, and the motors all started, sped up with throttle increase, rotation direction set?

However, when you plug them all back into the mc, red wires all removed, motors 1 and 2 do nothing, no beeps upon arming. Motors 3 and 4 arm fine.

But, when you take motors 3 and 4, and plug them into the ports on the mc for motors 1 and 2, motors 3 and 4 work.

This says the there is nothing wrong with the motor controller, all ports are functional.
Therefore, the problem still lies in motors 1 and 2, or the esc's for those motors, or the connections.

As the motors and esc's all worked when plugged individually into the Futaba reciever, this suggests the motors and esc's are fine.

Following this logic, then the problem lies somewhere when you reconnect to the mc.

Follow me so far?

So, let's run some more tests.

What happens when you plug esc 1 and 2 into motor port 3 and 4 on the motor controller?

Also, make damn sure that the connectors get plugged into the mc with the signal wire up at the top of the mc, ground at the bottom. This is super important.

Check all the esc to motor leads for damaged insulation, pins pushing out when you plug the connector in, anything abnormal.

In your transmitter, do a calibration, see your manual to do this.

Also, what configuration are you running, x or +? Do you have this correctly identified in the DJI Assistant program?
Make sure you do not have custom checked on the motor mixer screen.

In the assistant program, in the tx cal screen, have you done the calibration?
Is d-bus checked?
Select intelligent for a cut-off for now.
If you have done the above, have you clicked WRITE when you were done with the screen programming? You should click write on each screen as you complete each screen. Just good practice.

I think that is enough to go over for now. Let's do all the above and report back what happens then.

 

[Vojec]

Hi,

However, when you plug them all back into the mc, red wires all removed, motors 1 and 2 do nothing, no beeps upon arming. Motors 3 and 4 arm fine.

When I turn them ON all 4 motors start with the 3 short beep and then with one beep. Also all of them slight move for about 3-5mm in direction on beeps.

...and the motors all started, sped up with throttle increase, rotation direction set?

When I plugin all 4 direct into Futaba reciever (motor 1 into slot 1 on F8fg, then M2 into 2, etc) and start motors works fine and spining sinhro (same sound from all of them). when i move sticks in minus (decrease -100) that motor stop like; 1AIL left stick turn left (-100) M1 stop and so one. So motors behave in futaba receiver is ok then.

But, when you take motors 3 and 4, and plug them into the ports on the mc for motors 1 and 2, motors 3 and 4 work.

This says the there is nothing wrong with the motor controller, all ports are functional.
Therefore, the problem still lies in motors 1 and 2, or the esc's for those motors, or the connections.

As the motors and esc's all worked when plugged individually into the Futaba reciever, this suggests the motors and esc's are fine.

Following this logic, then the problem lies somewhere when you reconnect to the mc.

Follow me so far?

Yes correct, exactly as you described.

What happens when you plug esc 1 and 2 into motor port 3 and 4 on the motor controller?

I switch them and still nothing just beeps at start.

Also, make damn sure that the connectors get plugged into the mc with the signal wire up at the top of the mc, ground at the bottom. This is super important.

Check all the esc to motor leads for damaged insulation, pins pushing out when you plug the connector in, anything abnormal.

In your transmitter, do a calibration, see your manual to do this.

Done all that. see img.

Also, what configuration are you running, x or +? Do you have this correctly identified in the DJI Assistant program?
Make sure you do not have custom checked on the motor mixer screen.

In the assistant program, in the tx cal screen, have you done the calibration?
Is d-bus checked?
Select intelligent for a cut-off for now.
If you have done the above, have you clicked WRITE when you were done with the screen programming? You should click write on each screen as you complete each screen. Just good practice.

All set as you describe (img).

View attachment 2563View attachment 2564View attachment 2565View attachment 2566View attachment 2567

I really don't know what... where... why...???

Thx for all that support and time...

Just to consider... Is it normal when I turn quad and TX ON have futaba receiver green LED and MC red LED light?

 

[Tomstoy2]

Yes, green on Futaba means it's bound, solid red on WKM led means it's functioning correctly.

Ok, think we are getting a handle on this, but you're not going to like what we are going to do next.

What you are telling me is that everything works thru the Futaba reciever, and all motors arm thru the mc, but only 2 spin up, 3 and 4. Motors 1 and 2 will arm, ( 3 short beeps means cell count, one beep afterward means test is done ).

Here is what it sounds like to me, and it's a common problem with WKM. It appears that it just doesn't like your esc's. What make are they?

So, here is what we do next. remove all the esc's from your aircraft.

One at a time, plug them into mc 1, and motor 1 and test. Then go around the board, moving them to 2 thru 4. Do this with all the esc's. Then post your results.

I'm afraid that we will find a couple dodgy esc's.
What I expect to see is one of 2 things;

1. individually, they will all work, but collectively the system just doesn't like what it see's.
2. only 2 esc's work, the other 2 don't.

I'm afraid the answer lies with not replacing the 2 esc's that don't work, as there is no guarantee that the replacements will, but with replacing the esc's with proven esc's that the WKM is compatable with.
As I said, it is a common issue with WKM. Not all esc's are compatable with it.
As to why 2 work correctly and 2 don't, I suspect changes were made by the manufacturer of the esc's and you got a mixed batch.

Look at the bright side. At least the problem isn't WKM related, in respect it's not a malfunctioning unit. So the big buck item is sound.
All motors are constructed, theoretically the same, quality of components being the varring factor. So, no matter the manufacturer of a motor, it will spin.
Esc's though, especially the cheap Chinese or especially Taiwan made ones use the cheapest components they find, a lot don't even have any identifying numbers on the components as they are knock-off's. They make changes all the time following the price market from one batch to the next. That is why it is so important to use what is proven when it comes to esc's.

In my experience, I'm using Tiger Motor 30A esc's. The quality is excellent. They seem to worry about their reputation so they keep a tight quality control program in place.
I'm also a firm believer of stepping up esc size one level above what is needed. I don't like being on the edge of capacity on an esc. The closer you get to max capacity the more heat is generated, and heat is not your friend.

Sucks, I know. You spent $'s on esc's, they don't work. It happens, part of paying your dues in this hobby. Perhaps you can return them all and get your money back.
This much I can tell you, once this is sorted out and you are flying your quad, the esc's will be just a foot-note in your memory.

 

[Vojec]

Hi Tomstoy2,
Thank you for all effort helping me around like mentor. Will try switching motor ESC and if they wont work will buy tiger ESC as you propose.

will post my progress.

thx Vojec

 

[Vojec]

Hi Tomstoy2,
Thanks 100x times. You were right about ESC (look at img) they burn out. Now I'm calm, because know where the hell problem is . Your advice about Tiger Motor 30A esc's. Unfortunately are out of stock at: http://www.clubheli.com/Tiger-Motors-30A-ESC--2A5V-BEC_p_3588.html and don't know about delivery to European countries also. Tigers have a few online store. Because my clock it ticking (deadline is 10th of march). I'm going to France Savoy alps to shooting freestyle skiers in action. Is there some alternative solution equal quality. You know I'm a freshman in that hobby.

Again thank you for all support. I would walk for century in the dark without your help.

View attachment 2598

Need some extra advice from you. Somewhere read about mount separate BEC for powering 3-axis camera mount servos. Some people is meaning that the built-in BEC on the WKM MC is not powerful enough for powering extra servos, so it's better to be safe then sorry. What you think about this, as expert. If you positive about that what kind of BEC is OK (model name or link will be more than happy).

 

[Tomstoy2]

Wow, they did get hot! Got a feeling that you got esc's only rated for 3s. You got lucky! Could have happened in the air!

Yes, if you go with a 3-axis mount you will be best going with a bec and a seperate stabilizer. This is one of the few bec's I trust, Castle Creations 10 amo bec.


As far as a stabilizer goes, I can't offer any suggestions there.

What you could do is to just lock the 3rd axis and only use 2 off the f1 and f2.

What gimbal are you using?

As far as different esc's go, lots of people going with just cheap HobbyWing esc's. The DJI esc's are just HW configured to their specs. As to specific model, you'll be best asking in a seperate post. Just make sure whatever esc you order can handle 4s, and I would step it up to 30 amp to be safe.

Lots of people use Maytech's, but from what I've been reading it looks like they did a revision, so the jury is still deliberating. Plus, they can be hard to find.

I'm glad we found the issue, my friend.

 

[Vojec]

Got a feeling that you got esc's only rated for 3s. You got lucky! Could have happened in the air!

They rated from 2-4S, Original Gaui 500x 18A ESC.

What gimbal are you using?

Alware 3-Axis 450/500X Pro Camera Mount W/ SAVOX Digital Servos /Model: ALPRO3CM link:http://www.flying-hobby.com/shop/al...-p-8833.html?zenid=3k0v1h67uqt2luclfo78fqoub6

What you could do is to just lock the 3rd axis and only use 2 off the f1 and f2.

How about if I use 3rd axis and plugin into T and R channels (img. from WKM manual) or plugin direct to Futaba and link that channel to that.


Will do some searching for stabilizer now. What to say, thanks and if I need some help in the future, can I contact you for advice?

View attachment 2604

Cheers!

Vojec

 

[Tomstoy2]

Not sure here, but as I understand it, T and R are only active if used in octo configuration. Thought I read that in there somewhere.

Suprised about the Gaui esc's? Wonder what went wrong? I'm still using mine from my old 330x on my FLame Wheel. Good little esc's. Might have been something to do with the programming having trouble feeding start up power to the motors to get them to turn.

You are welcome, and yes you can, no problem.