Hey all, wasn't sure if I should put this in the beginner section, but I'm more of a builder than beginner, so it goes here! I am an ex commercial pilot turned computer science student and I've decided to build/program a quadcopter during my off time. My blog nathanthunem.wordpress.com goes over everything so far. Any help/advice would be awesome and appreciated! I just ordered the parts, let's have some fun!
My First Build!
- Thread starter nate
- Start date
Motopreserve
Drone Enthusiast
Welcome to the forum Nate!
Looks like you've embarked on a very addictive hobby
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Did you plug the details into ecalc to see what type of lift capacity and flight times you'd get with the various components? It's good for giving a decent estimate.
Do you plan on carrying any payload?
Let us know how you make out.
Looks like you've embarked on a very addictive hobby
. Did you plug the details into ecalc to see what type of lift capacity and flight times you'd get with the various components? It's good for giving a decent estimate.
Do you plan on carrying any payload?
Let us know how you make out.
Hey thanks for the welcome! I did plug it into eCalc and numbers came out to about what I expected. It should generate plenty of lift with no payload. I may carry some payload on down the road, but I think for my first build this will just be getting it to fly and what not. Once I get this one off the ground (hehe) I will probably build another one that has more power to carry a camera or other type of payload.
Motopreserve
Drone Enthusiast
That sounds like a good plan. I think you'd probably want a lower Kv motor if you were adding payload. But by that time you'll probably be on to a new frame, new props new....
fltundra
Member
I would get better motors. Lower kv and better quality as Moto suggested.
Biotechborg
Member
eCalc ? is there a program already tailored for these equations ? I'm sure I can just do them on a calculator... but... if there's simulations and stuff I can watch on a program that would be better !
Motopreserve
Drone Enthusiast
No simulations - but it is stocked with a ton of motors etc. so it makes it easy to plug in the numbers.
http://www.ecalc.ch/xcoptercalc.php
http://www.ecalc.ch/xcoptercalc.php
Biotechborg
Member
Nice ! Thanks !
I plan on getting better motors with a lower Kv on later builds. Thanks for the advice!
So I forgot a couple of parts to get, one being the Power Distribution Board. I have been doing some research and http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=28255 I've found that with these metors, I need a board with at least 128 amps (32 max current x 4). Do you guys recommend a certain board? I found a 250 amp board that requires soldering (which I have never done before) for $35 here http://www.rc-drones.com/Vulcan-250A-Power-Distribution-Board_p_736.html.
Thanks for the advice guys!
Motopreserve
Drone Enthusiast
I would NOT get that board from HK. I had one go out on me early on and it crashed the MR.
I have one of those Vulcan boards now. They are fine - and it's worth spending the money on something that will dictate whether the craft has juice or not. Make sure, whichever you choose, that it can hand,e the current t that you will draw.
I have one of those Vulcan boards now. They are fine - and it's worth spending the money on something that will dictate whether the craft has juice or not. Make sure, whichever you choose, that it can hand,e the current t that you will draw.
Yes the Vulcan board will have plenty of current available. I will definitely get those! Thanks!
Motopreserve
Drone Enthusiast
Did the motors come with the wires as short as shown on your blog? They are usually much longer.
You will need to grab some silicone wire in the AWG that matches the motors. It should be listed on the side of the wire currently on the motors/ESCs. You'll also want to match the size of the bullet connectors being used on the motors. You'll have to measure them.
The ESCs should have wire that can be soldered directly to the PDB. No need for connectors or extra wire on that end.
You will need to grab some silicone wire in the AWG that matches the motors. It should be listed on the side of the wire currently on the motors/ESCs. You'll also want to match the size of the bullet connectors being used on the motors. You'll have to measure them.
The ESCs should have wire that can be soldered directly to the PDB. No need for connectors or extra wire on that end.
Yea those are the length of the cables on the motors. I will get some extenders thanks!
I ended up buying the Vulcan 250 Amp Power Distribution Board, Turnigy 6X FHSS 2.4ghz Transmitter and Receiver (Mode 2), and a battery charger.
Hopefully the wire will be the last components! Hehe
Oh I need a soldering gun, it's recommended to get a high powered solder gun the the Vulcan board, any recommendations on which one/what kind?
I ended up buying the Vulcan 250 Amp Power Distribution Board, Turnigy 6X FHSS 2.4ghz Transmitter and Receiver (Mode 2), and a battery charger.
Hopefully the wire will be the last components! Hehe
Oh I need a soldering gun, it's recommended to get a high powered solder gun the the Vulcan board, any recommendations on which one/what kind?
Motopreserve
Drone Enthusiast
You're definitely best spending the money now for a good soldering iron. You'll have it for half a lifetime, and it will save you aggravation in the end.
There are 2 that are really good. The Hakko 888 (I think that's the number) and the Weller 51. Either would suit you just fine.
There are 2 that are really good. The Hakko 888 (I think that's the number) and the Weller 51. Either would suit you just fine.
violetwolf
Member
Second vote for the Weller Wes 51. You'll find yourself making up reasons to do some soldering!
Kratos
Member
man this vulcan board is 10 times more expencive than HK? Is it HK really that bad?
Motopreserve
Drone Enthusiast
It failed midflight causing a crash that wrecked about $100-$150 in parts. I did the math and yes, it was worth it to me.
Motopreserve
Drone Enthusiast
Just do some searching for PDB that can handle the current draw you will be relying on. The max your motors can pull should be the benchmark. Err on the side of caution and give yourself a little headroom.
If you are looking to save some money you can always solder your own "squid" for the PDB. Even good wire will be cheaper than a good pre-made PDB.
If you are looking to save some money you can always solder your own "squid" for the PDB. Even good wire will be cheaper than a good pre-made PDB.