maybe new props? and help with eCalc

[pepper]

hey guys.
I'm running a Rctimer s1100 with the 4114 400kv pro motors swinging the foldable 15x5.2 probs. I am getting around 13 min run time with tattu 22000mah . granted I have a heavy gimbal but only using a Sony A6000 at the time. what can I do to get better lift or longer flight times? new props or do I just need to start looking at new motors as well?

also, my eCalc says I'm off. can someone take a look at this screenshot and tell me what I am putting in wrong. I don't seem to overheat the motors at any time.

 

[Old Man]

It's either the props, the motors, or both. The RC Timer props are not noted for being all that well made and could be part of the problem. At the weight you might consider motors in the 300-380kV range. 13 minutes with an 1100mm bird isn't bad but I agree it could be better.

 

[pepper]

yea.... I was thinking of going Kde but I'm not able to refinance my house yet. lol. if the weather holds, I'm going to do some real world test today.... IF the weather holds out.

 

[Old Man]

I can certainly understand that but for reasons quite separate from cost I would not go with the KDE motors or ESC's. Nobody has been able to match the numbers KDE publishes fro their stuff in independent tests, and that includes aerospace outfits with very serious test equipment in R&D labs. Everyone comes in 15% to 20% the published numbers. If I'm going to pay big bucks for something I want to getwhat I'm paying for.

T-Motor sells generally good stuff but some of their U-11's of late have been coming apart after getting a little warm. Not a lot, just a little. But that's serious heavy lift and you don't need to go there. Consider that Sunnysky makes motors sold under just about every brand name, including T-Motor, so if buying a T-Motor it's likely a Sunnysky product. Changing directions a little, Hobbywing makes ESC's for a lot of different brand name sellers. In actual flight testing I've found the published performance stats for both of them in their higher performance products to be within a few % points of reality. OTOH, with high amp ESC's there is as yet none better than T-Motor.

If only Castle would get their act together and focus on multirotors for awhile...

Just for the heck of it, you have verified all the motors are level, wiring is reasonable length, and power wires and connectors aren't undersized, right? What kind of flight time do you get without the camera and gimbal?

 

[pepper]

you know. funny you say that about kde, I've been doing some more research into those motors. granted they are good, I'm not a big fan of someone stretching the truth about products. being an avid bow hunter. bow companies are ALWAYS stretching what the bow can actually do. it leaves a bad taste in your mouth.

I have been looking at Tmotors, sunnysky, and a little bit on cobra motors. I had thought I read somewhere that Tmotors and sunnysky were either the same company or made by the same people selling under different companies. got to do some more reading on the cobra.

without gimbal/camera I was getting a full 18 min just driving around, nothing to hard. but that was the first 3 runs on that beast of a battery! I have to say that Tattu has got a life time customer with me.

I was having a problem with a yaw turn. come to find out one of the rctimer ESC's capacitor broke loose. I was about to go mad trying to find out why it was turning. I just happen to hear something bounce around when I lowered the arm. needless to say I about passed out knowing that I was flying the crap out of it trying to trouble shoot the yaw turn not knowing there was a piece of metal rolling around on top of the ESC board. I'm using the Rctimer 40A that screw on the bottom of the motor mount.

everything I have now is from the stock S1100 with pro motors. the gimbal is an Iflight G30 with my Sony A6000 mounted. I'm a bit to nervous to mount my 6D and test just yet. other than that, the build, wires and such are good. I do need to find some way for her to lose some weight. I need to find a way for my gimbal battery to run my gimbal reciever. that could cut some weight. I have a job that I wasn't able to do recently because even using a 16mm lens, I wasn't able to get everything in the pic. a straight down shot of 72 acres. a saw mill. the bad part is that is about 10 acres wide and the rest long. thing a 8mm fish eye and just correct that in photoshop. the fish eye lens itself is quite heavy alone.
the Rctimer frame seems well built/design. I just think that the motor/prop combo the the bottom end of what they say it will do with a 5D.

 

[Pumpkinguy]

you know. funny you say that about kde, I've been doing some more research into those motors. granted they are good, I'm not a big fan of someone stretching the truth about products. being an avid bow hunter. bow companies are ALWAYS stretching what the bow can actually do. it leaves a bad taste in your mouth.

I have had my own issues with KDE. Very costly issues. They are probably a good motor. I just think I was extremely unlucky.
I will tell you that when I bench tested them with what I thought was the correct esc selection, they pulled double what the data said and tripped the esc. I had to sell the 55amp escs at a huge loss and buy the 75's. Then when I load tested the motors they weren't up to snuff in my opinion. Ya, they can carry the load if you want to run your motors @ 220F. I have given up and switched to tmotor. If only the KDE data was more accurate I could have picked the correct components first and probably wouldn't have given up on them.

 

[pepper]

yea. that right there will pi$$ you off. you think you are buying the correct setup and then you have to change it up costing more money....

 

[Old Man]

That's why I mentioned using the new 80A T-motor ESC's in another thread. They've been independently tested using equipment we can't afford out to 120 amps. KDE makes real good motors but their data sheets, well, ya'll already know where that was going. When you get to the expensive stuff it's all about quality and the perception of quality gets built on developed trust. If you can't trust the spec'd data you just can't go there in good conscience and you don't develop trust. Perhaps they simply need to have their measuring equipment independently calibrated and certified.