First chance you get make a trip to La Jolla in So Cal when a big south is hitting in the middle to late fall. That's when the hurricanes slam Baja and pump some nice size into California while the air is still warm. Or wait for January through March and head up to Lincoln City, Oregon to check out the 20'+ stuff that rolls through with some real cold water, regularly. I spent over 30 years in a love affair with the sea but moved to a location that made the trips too arduous to continue the affair. Keep at it, one step at a time; belly, knees, one knee and a foot, two feet. It takes a while to put together. Use the white water as your starting ground, not a swell or wave.