Hex screws keep stripping out...

[Ronan]

Alright here goes!

Vice grips don't fit, even the smallest one's. The clamp/motor are in the way.
I tried 2 different kits to get stripped screws out, both failed.
I have tried the epoxy method and 2 brand new hex and torx, i was able to get 2 screws out. The rest nope.
Dremel diamond cutting disc doesn't fit under the clamp.

I tried to drill out the screw so i can pop the motor off the mount and use a vice grip to undo the screw... almost worked but nope.

After 5+ hours of this crap... i was able to get 1 motor out... 5 are still stock. At $50 a peice... this is the most bs thing i have ever seen...

 

[deluge2]

Probably too late now, but have you tried hex drivers that are specially made for RC? The bits are hardened drill-rod *ground* to size. These are so much better than standard drivers/bits that they are well worth their premium prices. They come singly or in sets with metric and/or SAE sizes. The initial tight fit reduces chances of stripping the head. Then replace with quality screws of your preferred type (quality aluminum, ss, titanium).

Apologies if that's what you're already using but it doesn't sound like it. May be useful information to other readers who don't realize there is an alternative to the drivers/bits you get at a typical hardware store or home center. These are absolute crap by comparison.

Steve

Alright here goes!

Vice grips don't fit, even the smallest one's. The clamp/motor are in the way.
I tried 2 different kits to get stripped screws out, both failed.
I have tried the epoxy method and 2 brand new hex and torx, i was able to get 2 screws out. The rest nope.
Dremel diamond cutting disc doesn't fit under the clamp.

I tried to drill out the screw so i can pop the motor off the mount and use a vice grip to undo the screw... almost worked but nope.

After 5+ hours of this crap... i was able to get 1 motor out... 5 are still stock. At $50 a peice... this is the most bs thing i have ever seen...

 

[Ronan]

I tried every hex bit sizes/types, even my very expensive set that has never let me down.

When all else fails, go with brute force... Dremel diamond cutting disc to the clamp, chop it down, then to each screw to cut a slot, and then a flat head (but sharp) screw driver.

I got 4 motors out, the last 2 are stubborn. I'll try again tomorrow (getting late here). Worst case it's 2 motors to buy and not 6!!!

I'll clean and test every motor to make sure their fine, but so far so good...

So anyone buying a Tarot T810/T960 do NOT use the small hex screws on the motor plate and the motors!!! Buy different, higher quality one's!!! The rest of the hardware is fine though. It might have been a bad batch...

 

[Toymaker]

Even the best tool won't work on crap hardware. Cheap threadlock on junk hardware can be a disaster. You are kind of stuck with the crap that was supplied with your frame. You may need more heat to make the threadlock give way. The aluminum is a great heatsink drawing the heat away from where you need it. just keep heating it it will eventually let loose.

 

[Mojave]

To bad about the pain you are experiencing. Reminds me to appreciate the deep socket hex cap screws that were supplied with my build and the ones that I have purchased in addition. There is nothing like good hardware to make repairs, adjustments and additions go together easy. Good luck Ronan - thanks for the thread.

 

[Ronan]

Yupp nothing beats quality hardware... which seems harder to find now a day!

 

[mangoats]

A little trick from being a field service engineer for many years.

A snap punch is your best friend when trying to remove a striped button head cap screw. Put your metric wrench in the BHCS and use a snap punch to put an indention in the side of the BHCS, this will help lock the wrench tip into the BHCS. Hit it at several different places to help lock the wrench in. Then turn the snap punch at an angle going with un-screwing the BHCS and continue snapping it while trying to turn the BHCS. Each time you snap the snap punch it's a hard hit in loosening the BHCS, usually breaks it loose.

Here is a snap punch. http://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-Instruments-Automatic-Center/dp/B00004T7RH

Thanks,
Chris

 

[Old Man]

Another tip regarding a button hex head cap screw. Never, ever use a ball end driver to tighten or remove. Only use a square end hex driver.

 

[Ronan]

A little trick from being a field service engineer for many years.

A snap punch is your best friend when trying to remove a striped button head cap screw. Put your metric wrench in the BHCS and use a snap punch to put an indention in the side of the BHCS, this will help lock the wrench tip into the BHCS. Hit it at several different places to help lock the wrench in. Then turn the snap punch at an angle going with un-screwing the BHCS and continue snapping it while trying to turn the BHCS. Each time you snap the snap punch it's a hard hit in loosening the BHCS, usually breaks it loose.

Here is a snap punch. http://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-Instruments-Automatic-Center/dp/B00004T7RH

Thanks,
Chris

Good idea, never thought of it!

 

[mangoats]

It was taught to me many years ago from a senior tech for removing either button head cap screws or socket head cap screws. It really works on most types.

 

[bensid54]

It was taught to me many years ago from a senior tech for removing either button head cap screws or socket head cap screws. It really works on most types.

Being a Heavy Duty Mechanic for 40 years this makes sense and it has worked for me many times, along with what I posted earlier which most people don't understand how it can work, it just does.