Gain? What gain?
- Thread starter Andjons
- Start date
redridinghood
Member
"When user is configuring the parameters, please ensure that:
1. Aircraft has been correctly installed and ready to fly.
2. Test with no wind
3. Sufficient space for the test flight.
4. Test in Atti mode first.
5. With any mechanical problems, the aircraft are unable to achieve the best performance.
For the majority users of multirotor, the default parameter is good to flight. For security reasons, the default 100% is slightly smaller for most of the frames. This document is to guide the users how to configure the parameters properly to achieve the best performance.
First, the user shall restore all default parameters to 100%.
1. Basic parameters
We recommend to start from the basic parameters, because other parameters won’t help if the basic parameters are not set appropriately.
There are four directions for these,namely, pitch, roll, yaw and vertical. The method is the similar to that when we adjust gyro sense.
A. Pitch, roll:
For the first flight, pls go to an open area with no wind, test in Atti mode. Throttle slowly up to take the aircraft off the ground. See if It is oscillate in relevant direction. If everything seems fine, you can try to move the cyclic stick to feel how it responds to stick commands.
B. Push the stick to make the aircraft tilt, and then release immediately.Watch the response when it’s self leveling automatically. If it is too sluggish, increase the parameters by 10% -15% each time, until it wobbles when self leveling. Now the feeling will be more direct and straightforward.
C. But we do not want it wobble, so we need to slightly reduce the values.
B. Tail
The sensitivity of the tail is actually very easy to adjust, because there is only one basic sensitivity parameters, like general head-locking gyro. You can increase the gain to make it more sensitive and vice versa. As to multi-rotor platform, however, it is necessary to know that anti-torque for the blades controls the rotation of the tail. Due to the limited strength, it can’t shake like the tail of helicopters no matter how big the gain is, but will get motor to start and stop very agilely to affect the stability of the other direction.
If it is asymmetric about the speed to turn, please carefully check if the motors are installed upward straightly.
C. Height
There are two methods to verify if vertical gain is appropriate. Check if the height can be maintained when throttle stick stays central, or if there is a significant altitude change when flying cruise.
If it is the first time to fly, you can make it through the following way to reach a relatively appropriate gain. To increase vertical gain step up by 10% until vertical shock just happens or over-sensitive reaction from throttle stick. The phenomenon above mean too high gain, you can decrease the gain by 20% to get the relatively appropriate gain.
2.
Attitude Gain
Appropriate basic parameters have already been good for most of the flight. If the user would like to further enhance the control feeling, because each person's individual requirements for multi-rotor is not the same, you can then fine-tune the attitude gain.
.
Attitude gain only works for pitch and roll. High gains mean faster reaction of multi-rotor with the same stick range. Full stick range is corresponding to 35°multi-rotor inclines. For example, if the stick range is 20°now, the higher the gain is, the faster the multi-rotor inclines to 20°, and vice versa. Please note, too high or too low gains are not good, too low gains can make multi-rotor out of control, and shocking caused by too high gains. The default 100% is a little bit low to most of multi-rotors, but it could be adjusted higher or lower by 10% to reach the best control effect. Lower than 80% or higher than 150% are not recommended generally.
3.
Advance Parameters
Do not arbitrarily modify the advanced parameters since default values are suitable for almost all multi-rotors. Just keeping the default value of 100% is OK.
Introduction of advanced parameters:
A. I: Better left alone, it is mainly for forward flight with head wind. Increase for strong head wind. Decrease for strong tail wind.
B. Velocity damping: Ascending and descending braking, as to how fast you want the multi to stop. Increase value to have fast braking.
C. Increase to have higher position hold; decrease to have less. Fine tuning between ATTi and GPS modes in position hold.
Kind Remind: do not modify the default values without professional guidance. All advance parameters are only good in GPS mode. "
1. Aircraft has been correctly installed and ready to fly.
2. Test with no wind
3. Sufficient space for the test flight.
4. Test in Atti mode first.
5. With any mechanical problems, the aircraft are unable to achieve the best performance.
For the majority users of multirotor, the default parameter is good to flight. For security reasons, the default 100% is slightly smaller for most of the frames. This document is to guide the users how to configure the parameters properly to achieve the best performance.
First, the user shall restore all default parameters to 100%.
1. Basic parameters
We recommend to start from the basic parameters, because other parameters won’t help if the basic parameters are not set appropriately.
There are four directions for these,namely, pitch, roll, yaw and vertical. The method is the similar to that when we adjust gyro sense.
A. Pitch, roll:
For the first flight, pls go to an open area with no wind, test in Atti mode. Throttle slowly up to take the aircraft off the ground. See if It is oscillate in relevant direction. If everything seems fine, you can try to move the cyclic stick to feel how it responds to stick commands.
B. Push the stick to make the aircraft tilt, and then release immediately.Watch the response when it’s self leveling automatically. If it is too sluggish, increase the parameters by 10% -15% each time, until it wobbles when self leveling. Now the feeling will be more direct and straightforward.
C. But we do not want it wobble, so we need to slightly reduce the values.
B. Tail
The sensitivity of the tail is actually very easy to adjust, because there is only one basic sensitivity parameters, like general head-locking gyro. You can increase the gain to make it more sensitive and vice versa. As to multi-rotor platform, however, it is necessary to know that anti-torque for the blades controls the rotation of the tail. Due to the limited strength, it can’t shake like the tail of helicopters no matter how big the gain is, but will get motor to start and stop very agilely to affect the stability of the other direction.
If it is asymmetric about the speed to turn, please carefully check if the motors are installed upward straightly.
C. Height
There are two methods to verify if vertical gain is appropriate. Check if the height can be maintained when throttle stick stays central, or if there is a significant altitude change when flying cruise.
If it is the first time to fly, you can make it through the following way to reach a relatively appropriate gain. To increase vertical gain step up by 10% until vertical shock just happens or over-sensitive reaction from throttle stick. The phenomenon above mean too high gain, you can decrease the gain by 20% to get the relatively appropriate gain.
2.
Attitude Gain
Appropriate basic parameters have already been good for most of the flight. If the user would like to further enhance the control feeling, because each person's individual requirements for multi-rotor is not the same, you can then fine-tune the attitude gain.
.
Attitude gain only works for pitch and roll. High gains mean faster reaction of multi-rotor with the same stick range. Full stick range is corresponding to 35°multi-rotor inclines. For example, if the stick range is 20°now, the higher the gain is, the faster the multi-rotor inclines to 20°, and vice versa. Please note, too high or too low gains are not good, too low gains can make multi-rotor out of control, and shocking caused by too high gains. The default 100% is a little bit low to most of multi-rotors, but it could be adjusted higher or lower by 10% to reach the best control effect. Lower than 80% or higher than 150% are not recommended generally.
3.
Advance Parameters
Do not arbitrarily modify the advanced parameters since default values are suitable for almost all multi-rotors. Just keeping the default value of 100% is OK.
Introduction of advanced parameters:
A. I: Better left alone, it is mainly for forward flight with head wind. Increase for strong head wind. Decrease for strong tail wind.
B. Velocity damping: Ascending and descending braking, as to how fast you want the multi to stop. Increase value to have fast braking.
C. Increase to have higher position hold; decrease to have less. Fine tuning between ATTi and GPS modes in position hold.
Kind Remind: do not modify the default values without professional guidance. All advance parameters are only good in GPS mode. "
Thanks for that. This is not so different from the information in the user guide for the Naza FC. My problem is that it is gobbledegook; it is a very poor translation from Chinese or something. I was hoping that someone might be able to explain in clear English.
For example, "See if It is oscillate in relevant direction". What on earth does that mean?! "If it is asymmetric about the speed to turn, please carefully check if the motors are installed upward straightly." Eh?!
For example, "See if It is oscillate in relevant direction". What on earth does that mean?! "If it is asymmetric about the speed to turn, please carefully check if the motors are installed upward straightly." Eh?!
Tomstoy2
Member
Let's see if this helps.
A low gain will result in the correction feeling kind of mushy. Increasing the gain will make the correction faster, crisper. Too high and it feels really jerky.
The idea here is to get your heli flying as stable as you want.
Some people like a soft feel to their acft. Other's want a fast reaction. Your individual flying characteristics will likely change as you gain experience and confidence, so, adjusting the gains to suit your desire will allow you to have the control you want over your aircraft.
Let's say you are in a hover, the wind is gusting a little bit. You have your gains at default, 100. Depending on your acft set-up and weight you might notice the acft getting blown off the hover, then slowly recovers. Increasing the gain can minimize how much your acft gets blown about, it reacts faster.
Sounds good, right? Just remember that too much can cause it to look like it's getting jerked back. Too much can cause it to ocillate. In other words, the jerking just doesn't stop. At that point you need to tame it back down.
For a beginner, start at the default, see how it flys. If you want it to be crisper in response, slowly increase your gains until you get the feel you are comfortable with.
For a beginner, I would not even recommend starting off with remote gain adjustment in the beginning. Personally, I think it is best to slowly dial it in thru the assistant until you know how your acft flys under different gains. Then you have a reference and can set your remote gains up on a dial or switch.
A low gain will result in the correction feeling kind of mushy. Increasing the gain will make the correction faster, crisper. Too high and it feels really jerky.
The idea here is to get your heli flying as stable as you want.
Some people like a soft feel to their acft. Other's want a fast reaction. Your individual flying characteristics will likely change as you gain experience and confidence, so, adjusting the gains to suit your desire will allow you to have the control you want over your aircraft.
Let's say you are in a hover, the wind is gusting a little bit. You have your gains at default, 100. Depending on your acft set-up and weight you might notice the acft getting blown off the hover, then slowly recovers. Increasing the gain can minimize how much your acft gets blown about, it reacts faster.
Sounds good, right? Just remember that too much can cause it to look like it's getting jerked back. Too much can cause it to ocillate. In other words, the jerking just doesn't stop. At that point you need to tame it back down.
For a beginner, start at the default, see how it flys. If you want it to be crisper in response, slowly increase your gains until you get the feel you are comfortable with.
For a beginner, I would not even recommend starting off with remote gain adjustment in the beginning. Personally, I think it is best to slowly dial it in thru the assistant until you know how your acft flys under different gains. Then you have a reference and can set your remote gains up on a dial or switch.
Bison52
Member
As a beginner ironing out a new machine and learning to fly (get a Blade mqX), here's what I've had the best luck with:
Please note that this refers to Naza and a DX8 and flying in atti mode.
First point that confused me: I kept reading about flying in atti mode and flying in manual mode. Then I saw that there were atti gains and basic gains so I thought that the two gains governed the two different modes of flight exclusively. That turned out to be a misconception (plain *** wrong in West Texan speak). Atti gains deal mostly with sensitivity of the craft to the sticks, basic gains deal mostly with sensitivity of the craft to the flight controller.
The first thing I did before going into the Assistant was set up my transmitter so that the one knob I have is mapped to X1.
Then I went into the Assistant and set the atti gains at 80 or 90% then set the controls to INCH in the drop down menu below those values so I won't be setting them on the fly. I set the initial gains on atti lower than most of the pros set theirs. I set them at 80 or 90%, this means the sticks are a little less sensitive to my untrained clumsy thumbs and since I'm only flying conservatively in the calmest possible weather, the reduction in stick sensitivity is okay.
Now I'm ready to deal with basic gains . I use the drop down menu under each of the values for basic gains for aileron and elevator and select X1. This tells the Assistant I will be using the knob to set these values on the fly.
Then I turn the knob to the mid point and set the values for the basics gains for elevator and aileron to 120%. This makes the mid point of the knob (it beeps) 120%. You can turn the knob up and down and see in the Assistant how much each mark on the knob changes the basic gain for those two controls.
You could set rudder and throttle basic gains to be adjusted with the knob now too, I don't. I set the basic gains for rudder and throttle to 100% and then set the control to INCH. To me, those aren't as critical and it's less to deal with at one time.
So I've got the basic gains for aileron and elevator set to X1, which is the knob on my DX8. I've got basic gains for rudder and throttle set to 100% and INCH (inhibited) and atti aileron and elevator set to 80% and INCH and I'm ready to fly (in some calm weather).
These basic gains settings will determine how strongly the craft reacts to inputs from the FC. You're seeking a balance between prompt reaction and over-reaction, which is indicated by twitchiness or wobbling as the craft tries to self level.
So let's say you're in a hoover in atti mode and you push the stick forward (elevator) for forward flight and then you return the stick to center to return to hoover. How quickly and strongly the craft tilts forward and then tilts back is primarily a function of atti gains (remember we set that at 80 or 90% to make the craft a little more forgiving to our clumsy thumbs)
Once we have returned the sticks to center and the craft is trying to self level, this is where the basic gains come in. If the basic gains are too low, the craft will be slow to react to the gyros and have trouble reacting quickly enough to changes in attitude to self level. If basic gains are too high,
it will over-react and wobble back and forth. This is very similar to a new pilot getting behind on the stick and then over correcting trying to catch up. When pilots do it, it's called PIO, pilot induced oscillation.
The recommended method is to gradually turn the gains up and repeat this stick forward and return to center (hoover) until you reach a point where you see the wobble or oscillation. This tells you that you have reached the point where the gains are a little too high. Back off just a little and see if the craft self levels without oscillating.
If you are like me and only have one knob to adjust gains on the fly, you might go back into the Assistant and set the gains you have adjusted to INCH. This freezes them at the settings you have achieved..
Then you can then set your knob to control rudder and elevator on basic gains by selecting X1 in their drop down menus (not as critical for a multi) or you can set the knob to control the atti gains, again by selecting X1 for those menu items.
Adjusting the atti gains will control how sensitive the sticks are. You might adjust this depending on your skill level or maybe the flying conditions. If you only have one knob available on your TX, atti gains are usually the ones left on it, since they are more likely to be adjusted on an ongoing basis. If it feels like you're always chasing the copter and flying behind it, turn the gains down a little. If the craft seems sluggish to respond to your sticks, turn the gains up. Remember, you're adjusting atti gains now.
A lot of this is me thinking on paper (computer screen). It's how I learn new things best. If there is anything I've written that is glaringly wrong, please let me know so I'll know better and can also correct it.
Please note that this refers to Naza and a DX8 and flying in atti mode.
First point that confused me: I kept reading about flying in atti mode and flying in manual mode. Then I saw that there were atti gains and basic gains so I thought that the two gains governed the two different modes of flight exclusively. That turned out to be a misconception (plain *** wrong in West Texan speak). Atti gains deal mostly with sensitivity of the craft to the sticks, basic gains deal mostly with sensitivity of the craft to the flight controller.
The first thing I did before going into the Assistant was set up my transmitter so that the one knob I have is mapped to X1.
Then I went into the Assistant and set the atti gains at 80 or 90% then set the controls to INCH in the drop down menu below those values so I won't be setting them on the fly. I set the initial gains on atti lower than most of the pros set theirs. I set them at 80 or 90%, this means the sticks are a little less sensitive to my untrained clumsy thumbs and since I'm only flying conservatively in the calmest possible weather, the reduction in stick sensitivity is okay.
Now I'm ready to deal with basic gains . I use the drop down menu under each of the values for basic gains for aileron and elevator and select X1. This tells the Assistant I will be using the knob to set these values on the fly.
Then I turn the knob to the mid point and set the values for the basics gains for elevator and aileron to 120%. This makes the mid point of the knob (it beeps) 120%. You can turn the knob up and down and see in the Assistant how much each mark on the knob changes the basic gain for those two controls.
You could set rudder and throttle basic gains to be adjusted with the knob now too, I don't. I set the basic gains for rudder and throttle to 100% and then set the control to INCH. To me, those aren't as critical and it's less to deal with at one time.
So I've got the basic gains for aileron and elevator set to X1, which is the knob on my DX8. I've got basic gains for rudder and throttle set to 100% and INCH (inhibited) and atti aileron and elevator set to 80% and INCH and I'm ready to fly (in some calm weather).
These basic gains settings will determine how strongly the craft reacts to inputs from the FC. You're seeking a balance between prompt reaction and over-reaction, which is indicated by twitchiness or wobbling as the craft tries to self level.
So let's say you're in a hoover in atti mode and you push the stick forward (elevator) for forward flight and then you return the stick to center to return to hoover. How quickly and strongly the craft tilts forward and then tilts back is primarily a function of atti gains (remember we set that at 80 or 90% to make the craft a little more forgiving to our clumsy thumbs)
Once we have returned the sticks to center and the craft is trying to self level, this is where the basic gains come in. If the basic gains are too low, the craft will be slow to react to the gyros and have trouble reacting quickly enough to changes in attitude to self level. If basic gains are too high,
it will over-react and wobble back and forth. This is very similar to a new pilot getting behind on the stick and then over correcting trying to catch up. When pilots do it, it's called PIO, pilot induced oscillation.
The recommended method is to gradually turn the gains up and repeat this stick forward and return to center (hoover) until you reach a point where you see the wobble or oscillation. This tells you that you have reached the point where the gains are a little too high. Back off just a little and see if the craft self levels without oscillating.
If you are like me and only have one knob to adjust gains on the fly, you might go back into the Assistant and set the gains you have adjusted to INCH. This freezes them at the settings you have achieved..
Then you can then set your knob to control rudder and elevator on basic gains by selecting X1 in their drop down menus (not as critical for a multi) or you can set the knob to control the atti gains, again by selecting X1 for those menu items.
Adjusting the atti gains will control how sensitive the sticks are. You might adjust this depending on your skill level or maybe the flying conditions. If you only have one knob available on your TX, atti gains are usually the ones left on it, since they are more likely to be adjusted on an ongoing basis. If it feels like you're always chasing the copter and flying behind it, turn the gains down a little. If the craft seems sluggish to respond to your sticks, turn the gains up. Remember, you're adjusting atti gains now.
A lot of this is me thinking on paper (computer screen). It's how I learn new things best. If there is anything I've written that is glaringly wrong, please let me know so I'll know better and can also correct it.
Bison52
Member
Okay, I've got a question. I am in atti mode and in hoover so all thrust is directed down to counteract gravity. I apply elevator to transition to forward flight. Now, overall vector aerodynamics says that because I have vectored part of the thrust used to maintain hoover into thrust to propel the craft forward, I must increase total thrust to maintain level flight
My question is, in atti mode, do I do this by advancing the throttle, or does the FC do this by sensing that I have directed only a change in motion and not altitude and increases thrust to maintain altitude?
If it is the FC (which would seem logical if I understand atti mode correctly) then if the craft tends to sink during the transition to forward flight, would this be a case of basic throttle gains set too low?
My question is, in atti mode, do I do this by advancing the throttle, or does the FC do this by sensing that I have directed only a change in motion and not altitude and increases thrust to maintain altitude?
If it is the FC (which would seem logical if I understand atti mode correctly) then if the craft tends to sink during the transition to forward flight, would this be a case of basic throttle gains set too low?
Tomstoy2
Member
In a perfect world, yes, all you would need is to push and hold the collective forward, throttle managment would be in sole control of the mc.
Raising or lowering during forward, or any motion is then correctable thru the gains.
In reality, outside factors will affect this where slight throttle changes may be required, such as wind gusts and flying into or out of cold pockets of air.
Funny,,, I that you for your complement, but I honestly think you did a much better job of the explaination of the gains than I did.
Raising or lowering during forward, or any motion is then correctable thru the gains.
In reality, outside factors will affect this where slight throttle changes may be required, such as wind gusts and flying into or out of cold pockets of air.
Funny,,, I that you for your complement, but I honestly think you did a much better job of the explaination of the gains than I did.