Crappy Soldering Iron?

[SchrodingersCar]

So when I first starting building my f550, I picked up a 40W soldering station, per the advice of a bunch of folks... it worked fine for assembly of the drone, but now the problem is I've purchased a bunch of new Zippy Lipos that come with bullet connectors that I need to swap out for my own connectors... but they come with 8AWG wire! I was originally trying to hook up Deans connectors to these and it was near impossible to get any sort of connection that I felt confident in, I eventually tried trimming down the end of the wire to allow room for it to fit, but that just feels like I'm asking for trouble down the road. I've since gotten a bunch of XT90s, but even when attempting those I feel like I can't get a really tight and smooth solder connection, after hours of fumbling. Yes I'm using flux. I've heard that I might not be working with enough heat?

A.) Would you guys recommend getting a beefier soldering station? That way I assume there's a little more margin for error because the solder liquifies better to saturate all that wire? How much heat is too much heat?
B.) Do I have to worry about the heat traveling up the wire and messing up my lipo? Though with my current setup I feel like I have to hold the iron on the wire so long it might be worse?
C.) Is switching from Deans to XT90s a good instinct?
D.) Anyone have any tips/tricks for soldering connectors?

Thanks!

 

[genesc]

I purchased a new Weller Wes 51 Analog Sodering Station in preparation for my quad builds. It's range is 350°F ~ 850°F (177°C ~ 454°C) which is ample enough for sodering up to 10 awg wires.

You can find these for under $100.00 online. It has worked flawlessly for me so far. I did purchase a couple of 1/16" flat tips.

http://www.atgstores.com/welders/weller-tools-welwes51-analog-soldering-station_7585816.html?af=2615&cse=2615&gclid=COrnu4XAzb8CFRJk7AodWAIAeg&gclsrc=aw.ds

I only use the XT60 connectors for my power needs. Make sure you twist and wick your wire ends prior to sodering them to connectors. Use a good 1/32" diameter flux wire. I use Kester 1/32" diameter flux wire.

The pros on here may have a better solution but this all work well for me.

Gene

 

[Motopreserve]

Gene is right. I just got the newer digital Weller, after semi-retiring the analog version after 10+ years and wiring up countless recording studios with that thing. It still works, but the knob had snapped off long ago and I figured I had earned the right to not change the juice with a screwdriver

cant go wrong with Weller. Buy it once. You'll have it for a long, long time.

 

[PeteDee]

This http://www.aliexpress.com/item/220V...937-HAKKO-907-soldering-handle/784319200.html or the 110V one if that is what you need, last iron you will buy.

Pete

 

[Benjamin Kenobi]

I'm a huge fan of butane soldering irons. No wires and portable so you can take it with you to the field.

 

[PeteDee]

I have a very good butane iron, the Hakko is several orders better for every type of soldering.

 

[SchrodingersCar]

Thanks for the input guys... man, I just keep spending money.

How much should I be concerned about the heat affecting the lipo?

 

[Motopreserve]

Thanks for the input guys... man, I just keep spending money.

How much should I be concerned about the heat affecting the lipo?

The better the iron the less time you need to keep it on the wire to accomplish what you need to do. Which helps eliminate any issues. I would be surprised if you damaged your lipo. Keep a close eye on it if you're concerned.

Make sure you order some extra tips so you have various sizes for various tasks.

 

[kt425]

I would recommend a Hakko FX-888D. It's 70W and should be up to the job. It's a digital, temperature controlled station so that should help with knowing what temperature your iron is at. It also has preset modes for different temperatures (for jobs you do frequently) and a sleep mode for when the iron is in the stand. I also know when I was researching to get mine, I found they are very durable and a lot of people are still using old discontinued models because they still work perfectly. Longevity was a big factor in my buying decision. I tried to find where I got mine and couldn't, but I found one here that looks like a good deal: http://www.gotopac.com/Hakko_FX888D_23BY_p/fx888d-23by-hak.htm

Yes having enough heat will liquefy the solder better and prevent a cold solder joint. I would also make sure you are using flux, that will help too. If you use too much heat you will know because your tip will become black (oxidized) and then you won't be able to get the solder to flow nicely like before. You may be able to salvage the tip by cleaning and tinning it, but if it's really bad you will have to replace it.

Hope that helps!

 

[chipwich]

I second (or third) the Hakko FX-888D. It is superbly made, has a lot of tips available, heats up quickly, and looks good on the workbench. I really like being able to quickly switch temps, like when using thin solder.

 

[Hexacrafter]

Yep. Hakko FX-888D. An investment to use forever....
340 degree C for Rosin Core 60/40
380 degrees C for Lead Free