Couple of Newbie Naza F450 Kit questions

[cory_clark]

Hello All,

I am somewhat new to the multirotor/rc scene, but have a very good understanding of how everything works and have an EE background. I just recently purchased the NAZA F450 RTF kit and have a few basic questions before I get this thing in the air.

1) When you guys refer to "reaming" out props to 8mm to make them fit the DJI motors do you just mean drill them out to 8mm holes so that they fit the DJI motors keyed shaft? If not can you clarify that for me?

2) I was thinking of adding LEDs to the bottom of the copter to help with orientation, is it possible to run all of this off of the included DJI BEC or should I power them a different way? I will be running 3s and 4s batteries if that makes a difference.

I am open to any suggestions you guys have and just want to learn as much as possible before I start flying this stuff around.

Thanks for all the info,

Cory

 

[LeeT]

I just finished adding LEDs. I used 12 volt LEDs from hobbyPartz (http://www.hobbypartz.com/ledlights.html). This eliminates using a BEC.My guess is that 4s may be too much voltage, but it is a guess.

 

[RTRyder]

Hello All,

I am somewhat new to the multirotor/rc scene, but have a very good understanding of how everything works and have an EE background. I just recently purchased the NAZA F450 RTF kit and have a few basic questions before I get this thing in the air.

1) When you guys refer to "reaming" out props to 8mm to make them fit the DJI motors do you just mean drill them out to 8mm holes so that they fit the DJI motors keyed shaft? If not can you clarify that for me?

2) I was thinking of adding LEDs to the bottom of the copter to help with orientation, is it possible to run all of this off of the included DJI BEC or should I power them a different way? I will be running 3s and 4s batteries if that makes a difference.

I am open to any suggestions you guys have and just want to learn as much as possible before I start flying this stuff around.

Thanks for all the info,

Cory

Two things to be aware of if you're going to open up the center hole of a prop to 8mm, first make sure the hub has enough material to be able to open the hole to 8mm safely. Part of the problem with the DJI kit props is they don't have enough material in the hub as is and the molding technique they use is crap. I've looked at a couple of DJI props that broke at the hub and usually the most noticeable thing is shiny plastic in the break, an indication there was an air bubble there weakening an already marginal hub.

The other thing is if you do not get the hole perfectly centered you will throw off the balance of the prop to the point it may be impossible to get it right, not to mention the prop will spin eccentric in relation to the shaft of the motor, further complicating trying to get rid of wobbles and vibration. The best solution is to use Graupner props that already have an 8mm center hole which is 10 inch and larger. The 8 and 9 inch Graupner have a stepped hole with 5, 6, and 8mm steps, these are relatively easy to drill out to 8mm as they're already half way there, you just need to finish the job. Probably the only other prop I'd trust to drill out that large is an APC thin electric, problem is the hub is too tall and you can't get the prop nut on the top of the DJI motor with these. I'm going to get a set from the LHS and try milling the hub down enough to make them fit, might work, might not, and you need a milling machine to do it anyhow...

As for LEDs, I run the standard made in China LED strips direct off 3 and 4S battery packs no problem. Only thing is when using 4S they're really bright and it gets a bit harsh powering it up on the bench so a JST plug in the power lead is a good idea so you can "shut them off" when you want or need to.

Ken

 

[DucktileMedia]

What Ken said. 12 volt LEDs seem to be ok with the higher voltage right off the board or battery.

I would highly recommend NOT drilling any prop and purchasing a reamer. Drills grab too easily and will easily screw up your alignment. A reamer will make it easy to keep a square hole. As for the grouper 9x5s I didn't have much luck with them. The 10x5s seemed to be the magic prop with 4s on my naza with gopro. But to each their own.

 

[Simon Templar]

As for LEDs, I run the standard made in China LED strips direct off 3 and 4S battery packs no problem. Only thing is when using 4S they're really bright and it gets a bit harsh powering it up on the bench so a JST plug in the power lead is a good idea so you can "shut them off" when you want or need to.

Ken....

Using a 4S pack, where do you tap for the strip power? The individual ESC taps or the battery tap?




....sT

 

[DucktileMedia]

I soldered a wire off the board where the battery powers the board. Leave the ESC power alone. Take it from the source.

 

[Bison52]

I have F550 and just soldered short lead wires from the + and - at the base of each arm where you take power off for each ESC. Seems to work fine and makes for a clean installation.

I will admit I went light crazy. When I mount my NEX 5N and start trying to do some serious AP, I may have to redo the lights a little and tone it down a bit.

 

[Bison52]

Are you saying that the leads for the lights might introduce some interference or false signal to the ESC? I haven't seen it but I'll sure take the word of more experienced hands if you think it's a possibility.

 

[mailman35]

i have my hex with the leds soldered up off the esc power leads coming off the bottom board and i have not seen any power issues at all.
the lights dont pull enough to be of any concern.

 

[cory_clark]

Thanks for all the info guys!!

My Turnigy 9X finally showed up and I was able to actually achieve lift off today . Pretty exciting!

So now I just have 1 more question:

1) What do you guys use for your battery settings? I have both 3s and 4s, and I'm curious as to what you guys believe is safe. I really dont want to kill my batteries or copter.

Thanks for all the info,

Cory

 

[LeeT]

I use 2200mah Nano Tech 25 - 50C. The only weight I am carrying is the battery. Right now I mostly practice hovering and orientation, so I am not hot rodding it yet. I set my timer for 9:30. My voltage settings are:
First Level Protection 11.10 - .10 = 11.00
Second Level Protection 11.00 - .10 = 10.90

If I forget to turn my timer on (which I do most of the time), the F450 flies close to 10 minutes before it goes into emergency shutdown.

When I set the timer, and put it down at 9:30 I am putting back approximately 1675 mah for about 75%
When the F450 does an emergency landing. I am putting back approximately 1750 mah for about 80%

Hope that give you a reference point.

 

[tstrike]

So now I just have 1 more question:

1) What do you guys use for your battery settings? I have both 3s and 4s, and I'm curious as to what you guys believe is safe. I really dont want to kill my batteries or copter.

Thanks for all the info,

Cory

I think a lot of guys just turn off the batt monitor and go with the timer on their TX. Especially if they're swapping between 3s and 4s and don't want to recalibrate their batts for the low voltage to work. Set your Tx timer for 6 minutes and start it from the time you FIRST plug in your batt, check how much juice you have to put back in when charging. You never want your batt less than 80% of mah, this means you can drain 20% of batts power. I had my quad go through the low batt auto land function 3 times the other day and it was nerve racking, luckily I was never more than 12 feet up and over soft dirt.

 

[cory_clark]

Thanks for all the info guys!

Tstrike: When you say never less than 80% mah do you mean never less than 80% of the full battery voltage? So assuming I am using a 4s battery, the maximum each cell should have is around 4.2V meaning 16.8V total. So 80% of that is 13.44V, so i shouldnt let the battery drop below that voltage then right? That will keep my batteries happy and not exsplody correct?

Sorry if this is very newbish, i just want to have all the info before i start really having fun.

Thanks,
Cory

 

[tstrike]

Tstrike: When you say never less than 80% mah do you mean never less than 80% of the full battery voltage? So assuming I am using a 4s battery, the maximum each cell should have is around 4.2V meaning 16.8V total. So 80% of that is 13.44V, so i shouldnt let the battery drop below that voltage then right? That will keep my batteries happy and not exsplody correct?


Thanks,
Cory

from what I read on the innerwebz, plenty of places to find lipo info with safety precautions and what not. I have a 450 w/naza but I only have 3s batts and I use the low voltage safety in the naza. When it decides I'm being ignorant for disregarding its fast blinking red light, it sits itself down with or without my help. For more experienced flyers I can see how this would be a nuisance.