COLD Weather Flying (Sub 0 deg F, or -18 deg C) - Tricks and Tips?

SleepyC

www.AirHeadMedia.com
So for any of you guys that have to fly in frigid weather on a regular basis any tips? Is there a procedure you do to acclimate your rig and radio and camera?

Battery care?
FC care?
Radio care?


Radio mitt or gloves?

With this arctic vortex happening here in Ohio, it looks like if I want to test anything in the new few weeks i’m going to have to fly in this mess.

I made it 4 minutes the other day before my hands froze and I couldn’t feel the sticks. Very scary feeling.
I tried gloves but they didn’t feel right. cut thumbs off and still lost feeling in my thumbs...

Any thoughts?!?!
 

jbrumberg

Member
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2044083

This is a pretty informative thread on cold weather flying tips. I have flown my "toy" quads down to 5 degrees F. I do not use one of those glove/mitt things. I am more of an in and out of the house flyer. I leave the quads out in a cooler. The FC's and ESC's are not bothered by the cold. They may prefer it. The little 1S lipos stay on my person in a pocket saying as warm as possible. The Tx stays with me. One major concern is condensation on the electronics when one brings the quad(s) back indoors due to condensation. The cooler seems to help as does my wife's hairdryer and placement in a colder/drier room to reacclimate to the indoors. I have fashioned a moisture plate to protect the FC and electronics on these little guys, other people use nano spray. Silicone spray may work as well. I use silicone spray on those little brushed motors too. Brushless motors apparently are less sensitive to fresh water moisture intrusion. Bearings could be compromised though. A lot of people make koozies for their batteries as well. The cold really affects lipos.

I hope this helps.

Good luck.
 
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Motopreserve

Drone Enthusiast
We are definitely getting the winter weather here in Vermont too. Although I'm new to the state, I'm beginning to really understand that this might have nothing to do with a vortex, and more to do with just being in Vermont! :)

In the research I've done for my multiwii board, it seems most people either disable the Baro during cold-weather flying, or take the craft outside ahead of flying to allow it to acclimate. Apparently the Baro really doesn't like the cold. I've been following your experiences with the SuperX, but not sure if it has a Baro or if so, can be disabled in one of the flight modes.

Obviously this doesn't help with the hands....
 

jbrumberg

Member
I forgot to add about plastic and lower temperatures. Plastic gets real brittle in the cold; breaks real easily. Some of the oil based liquid lubricants/water dispersants gel up as well.
 

Bartman

Welcome to MultiRotorForums.com!!
Steve,

I had a similar experience a couple of weeks ago, 15 deg. outside and after about 4 minutes of flying my finger tips were numb to the point I couldn't get the SD card out of the camera.

From what I can recall (a bunch have been said already)

let your electronics acclimate to the cold before turning stuff on
keep batteries close to your body to keep them warm (once they start making power they keep themselves warm)
plastic props can break very easily in the cold, especially APC
gloves don't help
temperature calibrations that didn't go close to or below freezing may need to be redone from the colder temperatures (it may be a good opportunity to do a really deep temp calibration for HF users)
don't put really cold equipment right back into a warm house, an attached garage or a porch can be a good intermediate stop to let things warm up slowly
like jbrumberg said, condensation can be significant on cold surfaces so make sure everything is dry before applying power (if testing or checking once indoors)
gyro calibrations/tuning may not be completely reliable for smooth flying as the cold air is so much more effective at producing lift and the batteries are very happy having additional cooling

that's all i can think of off the top of my head.....gotta get a haircut, will think about it some more and get back to you if I come up with anything.
 

W. Reimer

Member
I live in the Frozen White North (AKA Canada) and unfortunately fly in cold weather for more cold months than warm. Since our winter temps are generally "Oh my Gawd, are you SERIOUS?" kind of temperatures, I've had to adapt in many directions. First of all, your UAV; it really should be left out in the elements to cool down completely before flying. As a general rule, I start the outside acclimation around 0C (32F). Below -20C I will only fly in wide open, unobstructed areas. That's seems to be the point where anything you bump with your multi will result in damage to your acct. You do not want to be messing with swapping out broken components at that temperature; even replacing a broken prop is onerous.
Don't fly Graupners, or other high-end carbon props. They will shatter with even the slightest contact with something. Buy, balance & mount some inexpensive props for cold weather flying.
Seriously re-think FPV flying in extreme cold. If you're a goggle flyer, you'll need to watch out for condensation inside the goggles clouding your view and potentially causing damage. If you fly with a monitor, know that they (LCD monitors) don't like cold. You can damage them just taking them outside on a cold winter day. Also, trying to FPV with flat, winter light can be vertigo inducing; you can't tell where the ground stops and the sky begins. It's potentially dangerous.
Here is my routine for batteries...if I know I'm flying later in the day, I throw the batteries I'm going to fly on the charger to peak them up. They come off the charger, and go into a Pelican case with a couple packages of desiccant and an air activated pocket hand warmer. The box is closed & latched, and it's the last thing to go out the door with me.
I usually will take a smaller 3S battery, 22-2500mah along just for compass calibrations, which I do every time I fly in the winter. I probably don't need to do the compass dance each time: I do it anyway. It doesn't hurt, it takes a few seconds, and I can be confident that nothing is off because it's cold out. I leave the lightweight battery plugged in until I'm ready to go, just to warm the electronics a bit, including the GoPro (powered from a ZenMuse gimbal on an f550) Once I have my transmitter mitt on and ready ( I use it for personal comfort; I find they do keep my hands warmer; my mitt has pockets for hand warmers,which I use as well so I don't have to wear gloves while flying), I swap out the small 3S batt for a warm flight battery. They come out of the case and go into a thin neoprene sleeve that I fabricated from an old mouse pad. They get plugged in immediately
When I fly, I don't see any real, measurable decrease in flight times. The batteries are nice and warm when they come out of the Pelican, and stay warm through discharge during the flight.
Once a battery is done, it goes in my coat pocket to avoid the chance of re-mounting them.
If it's really cold and the wind is up a bit, I also fly using a small hunting blind. It's a 1 man collapsable blind mounted on the back of a folding lawn chair. The top of the blind opens pretty wide so there is nothing blocking the transmitter, and it cuts the wind really well. I also have a small heater that mounts on a 1 lb. gas bottle that keeps me warm enough to fly very comfortably
 

jbrumberg

Member
W. Reimer- You are hardcore :applouse:, but living where you do you probably have to be. Thanks for your input.
 


jbrumberg

Member
My personal low temperature flying conditions are 5F (-14C) flying my "toy grade" quads. A guy at RCG reports having flown his "toy" grades down to -15F (-26C). I wear a snowmobile suit, and right now I would need my snowshoes to get down to my flying area.

I really like your setup and procedures. You have thought it out really well.

No "nut-job" could be so thorough. I know "nut jobs".
 

Droider

Drone Enthusiast
-35ºc and 68degrees North is my record. I actually got frost nip in my thumbs after sking dawn a run flying my F450 out in front! STUPID STUPID mistake!

I had not problem with packs the only problem I had was with the Go-Pro2. AND of course jello in some of the shots..

Its been shown on here many times so I wont embed the video but if you want to check it out its here... It actually won an competition the prize.. another Go-Pro!

https://vimeo.com/37034792

Dave

PS you can get transmitter cases that are like a big glove with a window in them so you stick your transmuter in there and you hands and they are heated by a lipo.. jsut remember to put an alarm on your lipo as they dont come with a low voltage alarm!
 

for W Reimer... darn ..... left the props at home!!! :nevreness:
View attachment 16464


I live in the Frozen White North (AKA Canada) and unfortunately fly in cold weather for more cold months than warm. Since our winter temps are generally "Oh my Gawd, are you SERIOUS?" kind of temperatures, I've had to adapt in many directions. First of all, your UAV; it really should be left out in the elements to cool down completely before flying. As a general rule, I start the outside acclimation around 0C (32F). Below -20C I will only fly in wide open, unobstructed areas. That's seems to be the point where anything you bump with your multi will result in damage to your acct. You do not want to be messing with swapping out broken components at that temperature; even replacing a broken prop is onerous.
Don't fly Graupners, or other high-end carbon props. They will shatter with even the slightest contact with something. Buy, balance & mount some inexpensive props for cold weather flying.
Seriously re-think FPV flying in extreme cold. If you're a goggle flyer, you'll need to watch out for condensation inside the goggles clouding your view and potentially causing damage. If you fly with a monitor, know that they (LCD monitors) don't like cold. You can damage them just taking them outside on a cold winter day. Also, trying to FPV with flat, winter light can be vertigo inducing; you can't tell where the ground stops and the sky begins. It's potentially dangerous.
Here is my routine for batteries...if I know I'm flying later in the day, I throw the batteries I'm going to fly on the charger to peak them up. They come off the charger, and go into a Pelican case with a couple packages of desiccant and an air activated pocket hand warmer. The box is closed & latched, and it's the last thing to go out the door with me.
I usually will take a smaller 3S battery, 22-2500mah along just for compass calibrations, which I do every time I fly in the winter. I probably don't need to do the compass dance each time: I do it anyway. It doesn't hurt, it takes a few seconds, and I can be confident that nothing is off because it's cold out. I leave the lightweight battery plugged in until I'm ready to go, just to warm the electronics a bit, including the GoPro (powered from a ZenMuse gimbal on an f550) Once I have my transmitter mitt on and ready ( I use it for personal comfort; I find they do keep my hands warmer; my mitt has pockets for hand warmers,which I use as well so I don't have to wear gloves while flying), I swap out the small 3S batt for a warm flight battery. They come out of the case and go into a thin neoprene sleeve that I fabricated from an old mouse pad. They get plugged in immediately
When I fly, I don't see any real, measurable decrease in flight times. The batteries are nice and warm when they come out of the Pelican, and stay warm through discharge during the flight.
Once a battery is done, it goes in my coat pocket to avoid the chance of re-mounting them.
If it's really cold and the wind is up a bit, I also fly using a small hunting blind. It's a 1 man collapsable blind mounted on the back of a folding lawn chair. The top of the blind opens pretty wide so there is nothing blocking the transmitter, and it cuts the wind really well. I also have a small heater that mounts on a 1 lb. gas bottle that keeps me warm enough to fly very comfortably
 

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