Can I get a little soldering advice?

[Roger Ramjet]

For your information CopterCop, I have soldered various electronic components on PC boards for large corporations in the field of optic fiber/high speed communications. The boards were over $500, 000 each and we always used flux (liquid) for soldering and unsoldering. Micro chips with 240 legs per inch were soldered manually on prototypes using microscope and we always used flux. I guess we have to define what is flux and what is the concentration used. But there is no way you will solder properly without flux of any type in micro-electronics as we are concerned here.

 

[Bowley]

Use flux, In aerospace applications we always used flux rather than the flux core solder. Its what cleans your job and ensures a good joint. You right about the harm it can do though Coptercop. It needs to be thoroughly cleaned off.

useless factoid: you can use pine resin as flux!! If you really had to!! I've had to do it once.

 

[linter]

1/ what do you use to thoroughly clean flux off?

2/ how's that joint lookin to the rest of you? me, unless i hear further objections and concerns, i think i'm going to go with it!

 

[Roger Ramjet]

1/ what do you use to thoroughly clean flux off?

2/ how's that joint lookin to the rest of you? me, unless i hear further objections and concerns, i think i'm going to go with it!

The pic 0193 shows a strange ground (black) cable soldering. It may just be the picture but it seems not as centered and not as well soldered as the others. Check it out. Otherwise, I see a big progress in the soldering and I am convinced that you can see it too. It looks OK to me as far as the pictures can revealed. You know, once soldered, give it a good pull and see what happened. You should always check your soldering for solidity afterwards.

You can clean the excess flux (gummy and corrosive indeed) with a tooth brush (use your mother in law) and regular rubbing alcohol (ethyl alcohol). The rubbing alcohol will dissolve the flux and you can wipe it off then with a kleenex or scott towel. It has to be wiped off because the alcohol will evaporate and the flux will show again.

When it is well soldered, physically checked and cleaned off, I personally use my hot glue gun and generously cover my connections with a good dab that stretch beyond the pad. This effectively isolate my positive leads, prevent element exposure and may even save the ship in the event of a breached connection. It can be easily removed and is transparent in nature, in addition to act as an electrical insulator.

Here you go now, ready as never and much safer in the air!

 

[linter]

thanks a bunch, roger. i agree, that new connection is much better than my first try. and that one with the black cable is not as good -- nor are all the others, which is one of the hazards of buying used via the internet. guess i'll have to resolder them all for the peace of mind. hope i don't run into any more two-wire connections!

 

[ChrisViperM]

And as for the suggestion to switch from a 40W to 60W soldering iron, STOP! Used correctly, a 15W iron should be ample. This isn't jewelry making class! :shame:

Not trying to be offensive, but if you try to solder wires from 4mm diameter upwards with a 15W iron, you spend the whole weekend trying to get the job done. What you want is to get the spot you are soldering hot enough to merge the solder and the wire together WITHOUT heating the whole cable. 15W irons are good for tiny stuff on circuit boards...but for anything bigger you need a bigger tool. If linter wanna stay in the MR hobby he will have to get a proper soldering iron (best with adjustable temperature and changable soldering tips) anyway.


Chris

 

[koolkiwikat]

I use leaded solder, so much easier to work with then leadfree junk, also dab some hot glue as extra back up to keep your wires secure and free from vibrating off!