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Hi CJ, assuming your using the proper esc's for your flight controller and your radio transmitter and receiver are bound, try this- With the propellors off and the power off to both hex and radio, unplug all motor servo connectors from flight controller-JUST MOTOR servo connectors. Start with...

yup, I wasn't reading it right. Ecalc looks so different than when I last used it.

Hi billy75, you should double check your weights, a 16000mah 4s is closer to 1600 grams, or am I not reading that right?

no need for adapters.

hold the board on the box and roll the box onto it's different sides.

hoki, try using a small box (like the size a ring would come in) when you do the cali. Hold the board on the box and turn the box on all sides to calibrate. Yes the board calibration is important, it lets the board know level in relation to the whole entire universe.

Nets are for old men, go with one of those drone killing eagles they're training. Plus you'd look badass with it perched on your shoulder rolling up to the club on the back of your bengal tiger.

That 4 billion has to be sales since there's only like 7.5 billion people on the planet Still though. Wonder how many Christmas units never made it out of the living room alive...

If they're self tightening props, you have to move the motors themselves around to have the correct thread direction (clockwise/counter clockwise) on the correct arm. pretty clean build for a newb.

Do a continuity test. The #1 motor + pin does power the board but doesn't power the rest of the + bus pins. The #2 motor does. All the pins share a common ground though. So I'd do all 3 wires on motor 1 and 2 and just signal wires on #3 and 4 (or don't mess with pulling out wires and just plug...

Also make sure you're set to quad of some type in the kk menu and not fixed wing. In fixed wing it only supplies power to the first set of pins to avoid shorting out in a crash with the unused pins "live" exposed.

Hi Bill, maybe try plugging in the motor to the number 2 motor pins and see if that powers the other motors. My kk board has motor 1 with all 3 (red, black, white wires)-this powers my receiver, then motor 2 has all 3 wires again-this powers the rest of the bus bar. Maybe you weren't using...

If you're using the same esc's that were used with the naza, they won't work on the KK board. Naza uses opto esc's and the KK board needs 5v fed to it from a BEC esc. Opto's only send signal, BEC's drops your battery voltage down to usually 5v and send power to the fc. Naza goes this route...

or at least make sure your transmitters throttle endpoints jive with the factory setting endpoints on the esc.

Calibrating links the esc with the particular transmitter has you know. Those must be some smart esc's ...

Have you ever been in a canoe with 3 other people all trying to paddle at a different pace? Calibrate your esc's to your transmitter. If nothing else, it takes that out of the equation. Only takes a few minutes.

Also make sure your servo wires are plugged in correctly between the naza and the ar6210. I used that rx and it seems I would always manage to plug them in upside down, also had to trim the little tab off of one end of the naza supplied servo wire plugs to make them fit in the slot of the ar6210.

I could see it being useful if your movi was on a jib or crane. I guess you could put it on a tripod mounted fluid head with a monitor for pan and tilt. I remember back in the nineties an Italian company came out with something like that for Hotheads, helped out the DP's who weren't fluid in...

what's new about it DJI or is it for the M?

http://www.gothelirc.com/shopexd.asp?id=2418 shameless plug for the guys and gals over at gothelirc.com You'll need a new Tx/Rx though. Bart also started a build on this in the beginners lounge, check it out. oh and welcome Bob, you should go introduce yourself in the New Members.