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I've never heard of flourine. You might want to head over to the thread that @Bartman wrote that explains all the in/outs of these lipos, if you haven't already. Great info. If you're using Deans connectors - you can just solder those directly onto the battery. Have to be careful and do one...

Carbon fiber is insanely expensive (although 6061 is up right now too). The G10 is a cheaper solution. Not quite as light, but cuts easily and stands up to abuse.

Expensive is subjective. There are super cheap motors, like the ones you have. But they perform as expected, less than ideally. I've had great experiences with sunnysky motors for reasonable prices. They also make several models that would be appropriate for your hex size. Ecalc will help you...

Unfortunately, those motors seem a little "generic," considering that's the title of the page itself :). No way of knowing what type of thrust they are providing unless you test them yourself. You could do a google search of other 2212 1000kv motors and try to get an estimate. The props...

Probably depends on who you have cut them. The problem with cutting Carbon Fiber (and to a lesser extent G10) is that it kills the cutters quick. I have some special end mills for these tasks, but they dull quickly. That cost adds up. It's also nasty sh*t to breathe.

You're throwing a few variables around that all play off each other. It might be best to head over to eCalc to see how the relationship between various props, battery cell/size and motors have on one another. As mentioned, it is not always exactly accurate - but it's a great learning tool...

Definitely helpful to hone in on a setup. It's not always spot on, but gets you in the ballpark. Worth the $5 for sure.

Nice work! I've been cutting some plates on a small CNC mill I built. Nice to be able to design to the needs you have. Keep up the good work.

3 blade props will likely lower your flight time. The advantage most turn to 3-blade for is increased thrust in a given diameter limit. But the added blade, along with the power it takes to spin it will lessen the total flight time.

Nice find. Seems they have some decent stuff. And in with you - an actual brick-n-mortar location is a welcome change of pace.

Not sure if it's just on mobile devices - but thermistor way to see the production the web site.

@hjls3 is spot on. There are many factors. Not least of which (to twist the real estate phrase) is balance, balance balance! :) The "best " prop for a given machine will be the one that provides the most stable flight for the payload - which of course has many factors contributing to it. If...

As @Bartman mentioned, so easy to make subtle mistakes in the beginning which can quickly turn into serious failure. Take it slow and practice the basic stick moves to become VERY familiar with how they effect orientation. Head over to the new member area, introduce yourself and feel free to...

Oh man! Sorry to hear that. I guess better on the bench than in the air - but now you've got more questions than answers? What part of the motor was the 200f measurement taken at?

AND it smells out only a bit before the H3 & H16. It's a real bummer. Perhaps they will figure out a way to retrofit it to the H6. I think the hang-up is the yaw motor having no through-hole.

End points are adjusted in the radio. It seems like you have this sorted out, the only reason I asked was to be sure that the stick position hat is arming the bird is the one described by the FC manual. If for some reason the manual says that arming should be done by placing both sticks all...

For the record: only Gremsy H3 & H16 have the canbus support. Little disappointing they didn't offer a mod for the H6.

Without any detail of the radio, FC etc, it's hard to know exactly what you're talking about. Was your FC supposed to arm in a different stick position than the one you mention above? If so, one of your sticks may be reversed.

If you're having issues arming, often the sticks are either reversed or the end points need to be adjusted. Make sure your stocks are not reversed first.

I thought that the suggestion was to use the same caps as the ones Currently installed. I could be wrong, that was read a while back, and miles into that initial thread on the subject :)