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I finally got the extra center plate yesterday so I've been able to finish the build. Here it is almost ready to fly - just got to wire the battery connectors on and hook up the gimbal and Video Tx. I'm really happy with how it went together with the ESCs and power distribution on one layer...

That's what I use - it's VERY tough and cushions nicely. And +1 on the exacto - you can rip a plastic housing apart if you just to pry a component loose.

Are you talking USA? 433 MHz is unlicensed for short range consumer devices - your remote car unlock almost certainly uses 433 MHz.

They are easy to find. Here's one at Hobby King in the US East warehouse: http://bit.ly/Y808kc. Either mount two batteries together at the CofG or spread them apart so they are balanced. Just whichever works for your rig. You don't have to change the voltage - when you run batteries in parallel...

You can either buy a Y adapter to run batteries in parallel or make one yourself. Here's a great tutorial on soldering heavy gauge wire: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7t9nT3Hn9b0. What kind of connectors are you using on your batteries?

I would definitely run 2 batteries. The weight difference isn't significant between 1 and 2 ( 2 being slightly heavier but not much) and having some redundancy is always a great thing for flying machines.

Yeah, good point. That's what I've been banking on too which is exactly why I also got the 35A ESCs.

I think you might be trying to spin those big props too fast. Do you have a 4S battery you can try?

You could add some weight just to see if that really is the issue. If it is then you're better off reducing thrust than carrying ballast.

Subscribing - I'm just building a quad with the same motors, ESCs and props so I'm very interested in responses! BTW, what batteries are you using? That makes a big difference. I plan on running that setup on 4S. 6S melts the ESCs in eCalc.

Yeah, that's seems light for that much thrust. The rule of thumb I hear from reputable sources is no less than 30% throttle at hover. Maybe someone with direct experience can confirm that.

Just a thought: you mention FPV in the thread title, and if that's all you want to do then I would ditch the GoPro and gimbal and get a small FPV camera on a Discovery like Kloner said. GoPro and gimbal is more of an AP setup - way overkill for FPV alone.

I had to make a rear battery holder from a spare top holder since the rear holder for the 650 is VERY puny - I'll be hanging some big batteries from here so it needs to be secure. This is an extra top battery holder plus four of the anti-vibration mounts and a little drilling: The position...

I saw you found my build thread: http://bit.ly/1wTe3JD. Yours are pretty much the same as the requirements I started with so keep checking in to see if my plan works! The center plate I've been waiting for should be here in the next couple of days so hopefully I can by doing my first test...

That's the power layer done. ESCs installed (not hooked up yet), BEC for the FPV Tx, current sensor for the Tiny Telemetry and pigtails for battery-in, PMU, gimbal GCU and voltage alarm. I have another center plate coming which will layer over this and then I can mount all the electronics up...

I've been flying a Phantom 2 for a while now and realized a few months back that a generic platform like that is great to learn with but has its limitations. So. I've spent all summer reading and trying to get smart enough for this build - my first. A little about my flying: This is an AP...

Anyone got a pair of these they don't need? http://tarot-rc-heli.com/Tarot_FY680_M10_Metal_Damper_Rubber_Mount Figured I'd ask here before ordering from China and waiting several weeks. Thanks!

I've been struggling to find the bigger T-Motor carbon props in stock anywhere too. I just ordered mine from http://www.electricwingman.com/ in the UK - they seemed to have a bunch in stock and shipping was very reasonable to the US. Looks like they have the 18's...

Any ideas? I presume everyone is using the TL variant since that seems to be what's out there at dealers. TRCH says "pre-order" on the Tarot website so I guess that's a new version? Any clue what's changed? I'm just about to buy one so I'm wondering if it's worth pre-ordering and waiting.

I'm about to buy a Tarot 650 Ironman frame, but I'm a bit confused about the different part numbers I am seeing: The Tarot site gives TRCH65B02. Most outlets are selling TL65B02 Once place I've found says RH65B02 Does anyone know what the differences are?