Search results

This project kind of fell by the wayside due to dealing with some family issues that kept me otherwise occupied, I've recently started back to working on it now that things are resolved on the home front. I did a complete rework of every part and have now been flying a pair of Discovery fully...

ZTW recently started selling ESCs under their own brand here in the USA. If you have previously used Maytech V1 or HK Blue series, you've already used ZTW ESCs, both vendors relable the base ZTW hardware and firmware with their own branding. If you compare the manual that comes with a Maytech...

The Castle are pretty much the same price everywhere, they don't discount much if at all. The good news is that they're actually quite reasonably priced as Castle stuff goes, around $140 for the set of 4 whereas some of the heli specific Castle ESCs in the same amp range can be half or more of...

There isn't any definitive answer. The problem is some motors work fine, others don't, and Simon is just one guy doing development on the firmware so he can't possibly test every motor that's out there for sale. Yes, the pole count is in the range that is known to be an issue and even if they...

Yes there is an alternative, the BLHeli firmware has been ported to the Atmel processor. Whether or not it fixes the high pole count synching problem I can't say but I do use the BlHeli firmware on some Silabs based ESCs I have and IMO it works much better than SimonK. The ESC firmware...

Either way works but I've found the distribution board method weighs a lot less than the wire, solder, and shrink wrap necessary to make a harness. Once you bolt the board down you can run the wires from battery and ESCs and eliminate any bullet connections or large amounts of solder needed to...

No, you need to disconnect it before you power up again, then it will stay where it last was when the controller powered down, I take that to mean it's "written" to the F/C. Part of the issue is something being lost in translation most likely... On sbus you would need to disable the aux2 (?)...

The adjustment only changes the Attitude gain, the only way you can see the changes is to upload the log file to the black box website and see what the setting is there. The only gains you will see in the SuperX GUI are the basic gains and the only way they can be changed is through the GUI...

On the hinge post an ABS part printed using filament deposition would not hold up to the stress plus while it is possible to cut threads into and on the surface, they don't have nearly the strength that threads cut into metal do. It works OK for parts that aren't subject to being stressed but I...

I use the ABS parts right off the printer, never used the acetone smoothing. 99% of the parts I make for multirotors are done in ABS, I only use PLA where I want the part to be less flexible but generally not in critical areas like motor mounts. So far my use of PLA on frames has been very...

The Herc's ARE ESC's, four of them integrated into one board so there's more things that can go up in smoke :) The latest iteration is the Herkules II V3 Profi Power Board which is a quad ESC capable of up to 6S in a 60 x 60 form factor, 499 Euro each. Nice if you fly a quad or octo, not so nice...

If you do want to use silicone to cover anything electrical, make sure you get some that is specifically for use in electronics, most silicone in a tube contains acetic acid which will corrode the traces on a circuit board. If you must use anything at all then cheap hot glue works well and can...

Thanks! As for the weight, I'd say comparable to a multi built from "normal" materials, possibly a bit lighter depending on choice of material and how it's printed. I tend to over-engineer at first until I see how the pieces hold up to some hard test flights and then refine the design to parts...

With carbon fiber arm tubes you could probably make a large portion of it using 3D printed parts. On something that big I'd probably opt for 2 or 3mm C/F center plates, especially if the intended use is carrying heavy APV gear, at the very least some decent G10 if C/F isn't an option. The Y6...

No need to worry, I've been making entire multirotors out of 3D parts using both ABS and PLA... And also making parts to mod existing frame plates... All of these are currently being flown and they fly quite well. The Y6 is great for windy days, the little orange one is my low and slow...

10% isn't even close to being enough of an increase in my experience. Best thing to do is put both basic pitch and roll gains on a slider or knob on the TX so you can adjust while in flight, do the same for ATTI gains if your radio has a second knob or slider that can be assigned to the AUX2...

Most modern radios have two failsafe modes, maintain last stick position and full channel failsafe. The difference is a multirotor needs to have full channel failsafe set for proper RTH to work when the radio is switched off as the default on most RX is hold last stick position. Binding for full...

If you're going to play with big boy toys you better either have deep pockets or really good insurance! It hurts just to look at all that $ reduced to a pile of junk in a matter of seconds, I've had a similar feeling before but on a much lesser scale... Ken

Yes, I have. In my case it makes no difference, seems to work just as well either way but I do mount the battery down under the lower frame plate and don't run the RX signals through the upper plate so there isn't a lot of interference for it to pickup. Interestingly I thought having the ESCs...

It is, or was a standard TBS Discovery, about the only things remaining from the basic kit/original build is the frame plates, everything else is custom made. It flys much better than it did the first time I tried a Super X on it. The latest version of firmware and setting the model type to...