fine tuning a gimble

[kloner]

Looking for some help in fine tuning a gimble off the naza. It's a direct drive tilt gimble with a high end digital hitec servo. i also have the servos programer that controls it's end points, deadband width and speed. the servo is running .11 sec. the gimble gain is down around 14 and i got this, whats the next thing i should mess with to smooth this out? does narrowing the endpoints of the gimble speed things up or smooth them out? Kloners in unchartered territory with a knowledge of how to change things, just not sure what.

the servo is 180 degree, it's this one
https://www.servocity.com/html/hs-5995tg_servo.html

 

[tstrike]

Are you using the pitch output on the naza? I believe that only lets you have 90 degree of travel. I wouldn't bother using the fc, just hook it up to a channel you can tilt it with a tx knob and don't get involved with the dark arts of gimbal witchery. Dude, that things got to be front heavy as h#ll! got the piece in the mail today thanks.

I've heard rumors that there's an epidemic of eardrum injury's in San Diego due to a mysterious earplug shortage.

 

[RTRyder]

You're probably not going to get it much better than what you already have. Any jitter or jumpiness is likely slack between the gears in the servo and short of testing a case of servos to find the one with the least slop in the geartrain there isn't much that can be done about it, just the nature of direct drive gimbals when used on multirotors or helis. Add to that the fact that the gimbal stabilization in the Naza is so-so at best and you're fighting a battle you can't win. I've had a number of different gimbals attached to a Naza, from an MK Hisight II to a Photohigher AV130 and while it does decent job of keeping the camera view fairly straight and level it doesn't have enough resolution to filter out everything nor does it have enough adjustments to get it working as best it can with any and all servos. I've actually gotten the best results with cheap Hitec analog servos on direct drive gimbals and the Naza. Unless you're goal is to produce fancy videos leave it as-is, you could spend a lot of time and $ and not see a significant improvement, BTDT...

Changing the endpoint settings in the Assistant will only change how far the servo will move in either direction, and the gain is there to determine how much or how little compensation is applied to maintain camera level as the frame tilts, it has nothing to do with how fast the servo will respond, the servo itself determines that. Since it's a programmable servo you can try making changes to the deadband setting and you may see some improvement but don't expect a lot.

Ken

 

[kloner]

the servo has speed adjustment. slower wouldn't make it more relaxed? is deadband adjust gonna make it less sensitive to trying to get to the exact spot it's being told to be? I know it comes set to 0 which would be a major difference between a newer fancy servo and an old cheap analog type. there deadband is massive, analog

 

[kloner]

Are you using the pitch output on the naza? I believe that only lets you have 90 degree of travel. I wouldn't bother using the fc, just hook it up to a channel you can tilt it with a tx knob and don't get involved with the dark arts of gimbal witchery. Dude, that things got to be front heavy as h#ll! got the piece in the mail today thanks.

I've heard rumors that there's an epidemic of eardrum injury's in San Diego due to a mysterious earplug shortage.

the gimble itself with bearings was 90 gram, the servo is 62 gram. i'm used to the kloners rig that had a gopro in a case. ordered the plug for this to make the gopro powered by the core so can ditch the battery. it ought to work out in the end just fine. All i want is towards the best i can get it. Got a good week or two till my next outing. If i didn't want to try and stabilize it i wouldn't have bothered with the gimble. i do have a low view and high view, but most liely won't use em much. It's the fpv cam too

that plate should fit any 32 or 38mm board cam. the only part your missing is power to it all. if you buy a core and float it inside the frame, it'd be just like the real deal. most likey the current sensor is still working, built in the board back by where the battery wire is.

 

[RTRyder]

the servo has speed adjustment. slower wouldn't make it more relaxed? is deadband adjust gonna make it less sensitive to trying to get to the exact spot it's being told to be? I know it comes set to 0 which would be a major difference between a newer fancy servo and an old cheap analog type. there deadband is massive, analog

You can try it and see how it responds to speed changes. Changing the deadband will "numb" the response as it gets wider so it will take more frame movement before the gimbal will compensate but too much will cause lag so the video can get really twitchy if you go far since the gimbal is always playing catch up. It's really just a matter of finding the best combination of servo and Naza gimbal settings to get the best possible results and the only way to do that is trial and error.

Ken

 

[kloner]

the only thing that sucks is i got the wire split, power side going to a bec and the signal to the naza, scared to get pulling and putting too much so i wanted to get some ideas to not straight guess. want it to still work by the time i get out there. been here done this before..... Right now it seems like those last couple ticks it does trying to center up are the twitchiest.

will screw with it and get back.....

oh and tstrike, no it was going the full 150 degrees till i turned back the endpoints on the switch for up and down. Thing was looking down at it's toes. i might put that one back, kinda neat view a quad can't normally get. had to turn down the endpoints to 900 on one side, 600 on the other to keep from making the evo buzz like it was pushing to hard when switched from up to down. i guess the stabailized part is 90 degrees, prob what you meant

 

[kloner]

with the 62 and 90 gram, came out 15 gram heavier than the whole enchilada but it's forward another couple inches. This is with the batteries in the cam, was 28 gram of the weight on the scale pic.

adding a pack moved it forward a little more, but less than another 1/4"

i've ditched the second camera up front so that's a little more i lost.....

It flies fine around here, but as we all know wide open spaces seem to show everything so i'll go try it out. The OSD went perfect on me. it is measuring current perfect. i flew a pack last night 1000 mah, it took 998 mah back in...... that's better.

 

[ChrisViperM]

I just looked at he servocity site for your Hitec HS-5995TG servo and saw that the speed in the specs is 0.12sec/60° which means it's 0,18sec/90°....and that is lame as hell. I always use Futab BLS254 which gives you 0,06sec/60° or 0,09sec/90°. The torque should also be sufficient for your gimbal....only drawback could be that the Futaba runs on 4.8 V, but I always hook a little downstep dingi between rx and servo...but in this field you are expert anyway.

Chris

 

[kloner]

not an expert at all with the gimbles..... that's why i'm asking for help

so far with what i see, speed doesn't seem to be that much of a friend looking through a camera. i had to turn the manual speed down to 5 so the camera doesn't get thrown off. it is 400+ gram so anything it pushes on is like it's not there. i hit down on the ground by accident, it reminded me of a F1 car getting it's tires changed as the front came up 2"

naza is 5v, i'm running a bec cause this thing is running 7.4 volt. 5v would be an easier gig

 

[kloner]

turning down the dead bandwidth made it feel notchier, but reducing it's range smoothed it out alot. left in the stock setup was full range like this vid, just not necessary

got the deadband back to 1 and narrowed up the servos movement inside itself, ready to fly it when mama comes home

 

[kloner]

dam you chris, slept on this a few nights and now the bls 254 is on the way.

I'll put this one in the zII's spare parts. Good servo, i just want better

 

[ChrisViperM]

...hope it works, otherwise I will only go with bodyguards to San Diego...let's hear how it goes once it's fitted.

Chris

 

[kloner]

think it'd run off a naza or should i leave the ccbec in there?

 

[ChrisViperM]

The Futab BLS254 is stated to run on 4.8V. Ther is a lot of confusion on the net about wheter to use it only with 4.8V or up to 6.0V. Just one example here: http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=155974
But from my experience and many other guys you can savely go from 4.8 up to 6.0 Volts....gives you room to play since speed and torque change with different Voltage. I know you hate splitting the cables (signal=NAZA, juice=BEC) but I have seen too many FC's cut out because the amp draw of servos going through the FC.

Chris

 

[Bowley]

I use savox 1258 at 0.06s on 6V. with Naza, still jittery as....
dont expect too much out of the gimbal outputs, if it could possibly be smooth, DJI and Freefly wouldnt be charging big bucks for their zenmuse and radian.
Ive used the XA FC1212 AHRS, Naza and APM2 on the same gimbal (XA). APM2 seems to be the best so far and that was before fine tuning which I have yet to do, Naza was the worst of the three.

 

[kloner]

this is just a one servo tilt gimble thing, wonder if using something like a spartan760 would help things?got a few of em here

 

[Bowley]

If its just one axis why not try a good tail Gyro

 

[kloner]

before i hook it all up and make smoke let me run this by you.

if i turn the gain to zero but leave the gimble part enabled in naza to get an up and down view on a switch, can i stack the gyro after that then out of the gyro into the servo? see any problems on my horizon???? or- Should i hook the gyro straight to a independent channel on my rx and assign a switch to it?

 

[ChrisViperM]

But doesn't the spartan compensate for vertical movement (left/right)...? In your setup you need horizontal compensation (up/down)

Have a look here....looks interesting, especially for that price: http://quadframe.com/collections/cm/products/g01k ...dunno if it fits your rig. Lots of guys are using it with the Arducopter APM2 http://code.google.com/p/arducopter/wiki/APM2board
One of your problems could also be that your gimbal is sitting directly on the servo....any chance of "gearing" it...?

Chris