Aeronavics / Droidworx XM configuration

[CdA D]

I'd suggest not running 12v LED lights on 4s, you will be too high with voltage. Try to get a 12v stepdown or BEC. The PDB sits on standoffs.
http://droidworx.co.nz/assets/PDB_mounting-021.pdfDroidworx PDB manual

The BEC won't work. They top out at 7v. You can use a j-connector (male end without the sleeve), the pins will stick out and if you leave the center pin hole empty with + in one and - in the other this should plug into you balance connector. You'll have the - pin in the black wire port and the + in the third wire out from the black and this should give you 11v, which will run your lights. I use this set-up.

 

[Kolb]

I need help. I somehow messed up big time.

I ignored everyones advice about hooking up the LED to the battery. Quite a lot of people online said it won't cause any issue.
I have 2 LED colors, red and white. Two of each on the booms and two of each on the motor mounts. I soldered these together, that gave me a bullet connector for negative and positive, this picture shows you the corresponding PDB connectors:

My Wookong-M comes with an XT-60 connector for power. So I soldered a corresponding XT60 connector to my board:

I connected all my motor bullet connectors to my ESCs bullet connectors.
My PDB came with 2x power cables with 6mm connectors, I removed these and added 4mm connectors corresponding with my batteries.

I did not yet installed my Wookong, I wanted to see if my LEDs were working. So I plugged in the battery. Working, I heard some beeping, probably the ESCs, but almost simultaneously SMOKE. I unplugged my battery directly, but I think harm was al ready done. It kept smoking for a little while, so I guess some ESCs ended up for the bin.

Please help me to understand this, what did I do wrong? How can I test if an ESC is still working? I connected the positive banana adapter from the battery to the power cable, then I did the other one. The minute I touched the other side, it gave a little spark.

I am totally lost now - Probably something stupid but I lost a lot of money with this mistake.

Any help is much appreciated. I would love to see some pictures from someone elses PDB as well, might give me a clearer insight.

 

[Kolb]

Instinct says polarity, but how can the polarity be wrong if I heard my ESCs beeping and my LEDs flashing?
Is the weak link the banana plugs? I did not connected both plugs simultaneously, but this can't cause the ESCs to burn, right? Still think I'll change them to XT60. Or is it that I didn't hooked up my ESCs to my rx, impossible right?

My battery is a 4S 5000 Lipo and I use 40a Hobbywing Opto ESCs.

 

[CdA D]

Instinct says polarity, but how can the polarity be wrong if I heard my ESCs beeping and my LEDs flashing?
Is the weak link the banana plugs? I did not connected both plugs simultaneously, but this can't cause the ESCs to burn, right? Still think I'll change them to XT60. Or is it that I didn't hooked up my ESCs to my rx, impossible right?

My battery is a 4S 5000 Lipo and I use 40a Hobbywing Opto ESCs.

Chances are you have a short. Look at your wires and see if the insulation on any of them looks damaged this might tell you which one got hot. The trouble with soldering your ESC's to the PDB is that if you need to test them individually you need to unsolder one wire. I don't think you damaged your ESC's. I suspect it has something to do with the LED's. Don't forget that once you program your ESC's you need to disconnect the +red wire on the J-connector. Some people cut them and some just remove the pin from the connector, bend it back and tape it to it's self, I used heat shrink. If you do the latter and you need for some reason to re-program your ESC's you can just plug the pin back into the connector and program them then remove the pin again. Just my thoughts. I'm sure someone else will have some insight on this. Make sure you insulate your solder connections, carbon fiber is a conductor, this will cause a problem. I noticed that you power wires were not insulated this might have been your issue.

 

[Kolb]

Thank you CDA, much appreciated.

The ESCs have a burned smell, I do hope you are right though and that they are fine. I'll check for insulations later, that also jumped my mind, that one of the solder connections touched the carbon fiber. But how do you insulate something like this? Is hot glue an option?

Just for my peace of mind, there is nothing wrong with my setup?

 

[Kolb]

Ok, I didn't really test the ESCs, but I removed the LED system. Powered up every single ESC and they give the startup beep and the periodic beeping. So they seem to be working fine, am I correct? Still figuring out how to insulate my solder connections.

I later connected every single ESC to the board, powered up, and no smoke, beeping. Great. So I'll continue my build without the LEDs, but I have to find a solution, because I don't want to be flying without them.

 

[CdA D]

Ok, I didn't really test the ESCs, but I removed the LED system. Powered up every single ESC and they give the startup beep and the periodic beeping. So they seem to be working fine, am I correct? Still figuring out how to insulate my solder connections.

I later connected every single ESC to the board, powered up, and no smoke, beeping. Great. So I'll continue my build without the LEDs, but I have to find a solution, because I don't want to be flying without them.

Let me start with the FACT that I'm in no way an authority on these builds. With that said, as to insulating you solder connections just be sure that if there is a chance that something might contact them you should prevent this from happening. There is some insulated tape that is thick and you can use some pieces to cover your connections. I'm thinking mainly your power connections on the PDB. Great that you don't seem to have an issue with the ESC's. I have heard that they either work or they don't. As for connecting the LED's check back on this thread, just before you posted the issue with smoke and I described how to connect the LED's to your battery at the correct voltage. I don't know how many lights you have in each string, but 6 is a good number. I use three the minimum. I have one set one my forward boom, green, and two in the back, blue. Remember they use power so be aware of how many you are using. This will decrease your flight time. If you need a pic of this let me know and I'll post one of my setup, but I will tell you now that I'm a little challenged when it comes to posting pics.

 

[Kolb]

Hi Cda,

I think the open soldering pads from the power board touched the center plate bolts that come with the Droidworx frame. And thus created a short. I hate insulation tape, they don't stick, glue comes of, always a mess, I have heaps of them laying around. I just put some hot glue over it, this seems to be working fine.

I read your comment about using the balance plug for running the LEDs. Much appreciated, but I was looking for a way not to always plug them in.
I have 6 leds on the motor mounts, 9 on the booms x 2 for each colour.
Don't worry about posting pics, you have advised me more then enough!

I hooked up my DJI system and everything works, great! I think the Wookong LED is more then bright!

Cheers!

 

[CdA D]

Hi Cda,

I think the open soldering pads from the power board touched the center plate bolts that come with the Droidworx frame. And thus created a short. I hate insulation tape, they don't stick, glue comes of, always a mess, I have heaps of them laying around. I just put some hot glue over it, this seems to be working fine.

I read your comment about using the balance plug for running the LEDs. Much appreciated, but I was looking for a way not to always plug them in.
I have 6 leds on the motor mounts, 9 on the booms x 2 for each colour.
Don't worry about posting pics, you have advised me more then enough!

I hooked up my DJI system and everything works, great! I think the Wookong LED is more then bright!

Cheers!

Great! Then have a good time and fly safe.

 

[Kolb]

Contacted Droidworx about the PDB issue, seems like a design error that the soldering joints of the power cables are able to touch the center plate bolts.

I am a bit baffled, because this happened again. I installed my Wookong system, plugged in the battery but the USB connector was still hanging around and, yes, touched one of the booms. White smoke again, purely from contact. This is scary.

Is this even possible? I sure am not the first person to encounter this, right?

 

[Kolb]

Insulated every solder connection, raised second level mounting plate by a few mms. Completed the build. Had my first maiden this evening. Stress. Doubled checked everything, again checking everything. Just do it. Go for it. Arm, raise throttle - YES!

Did not touched gains, but first impressions are awesome, smooth flight, had 2x5000mah batteries and stayed in air for about 6 minutes and battery levels showed 55%. I do need a new charger, though...

Few issues that bothered me during this build and which I will pass through Droidworx

- I cannot get my plastic doom to fit because i've raised my mounting plates. Contacted my dealer, he says it is indeed a very tight fit with the PDB. Bit of a shame though.
- Center plate bolts right above power cable solder tabs; no go, really pissed because of that. I detected the spot where it shorted the very first time. I can actually peel of some carbon fibre...
- No standard GPS mounting bracket included, come on...

 

[CdA D]

Insulated every solder connection, raised second level mounting plate by a few mms. Completed the build. Had my first maiden this evening. Stress. Doubled checked everything, again checking everything. Just do it. Go for it. Arm, raise throttle - YES!

Did not touched gains, but first impressions are awesome, smooth flight, had 2x5000mah batteries and stayed in air for about 6 minutes and battery levels showed 55%. I do need a new charger, though...

Few issues that bothered me during this build and which I will pass through Droidworx

- I cannot get my plastic doom to fit because i've raised my mounting plates. Contacted my dealer, he says it is indeed a very tight fit with the PDB. Bit of a shame though.
- Center plate bolts right above power cable solder tabs; no go, really pissed because of that. I detected the spot where it shorted the very first time. I can actually peel of some carbon fibre...
- No standard GPS mounting bracket included, come on...

Excellant!!! Remember that heat concentrated in one spot is not good, as you noticed where you had contact, the short. The LED's will get quite warm if you don't get down to 12v. Might not be a problem, but over time could possibly cause fiber/resin breakdown on your booms. Congratulations again, great feeling isn't it?!

 

[Kolb]

I did not connected the LEDs yet, I am trying to find another solution for them. But sure, the feeling of getting this craft airborn is priceless.
Had a reply from Droidworx on the PDB/solder joints:

This is the first report report we have had and will look further into it. I would suggest either hot glue as you have proceeded in doing, mounting the PDB upside down or rotating it so the joints are clear. I expect we will move the connection points on the next batch of plates we manufacture to solve this issue.

 

[nicwilke]

My dome is on longer standoffs to accommodate the Droidworx PDB. This in turn makes it look a little taller, but I guess thats why they came with the oversize new Titanium branded Dome. I'd sure love one of those.

 

[CdA D]

I did not connected the LEDs yet, I am trying to find another solution for them. But sure, the feeling of getting this craft airborn is priceless.
Had a reply from Droidworx on the PDB/solder joints:

If you haven't found a solution to the LED's yet try this. www.hobbyking.com. Search: UBEC 12v 4.5A. This will make it possible to connect the LED's to the PDB using a j-connector. There is a 2A UBEC, but with all the LED's you have it might be safer to go with the 4.5 it will run cooler, also I was told that EACH LED lamp uses .2a, so you need to multiply each lamp by .2 to see how many amps you'll be using. If my math is close you could run 22 lamps off of one 4.5a UBEC, but that won't leave you any extra room and the UBEC will run hotter. If you are running more than 18 lamps you might want to use two UBEC's or use fewer lamps. There are three lamps to each section.

 

[Kolb]

I am still waiting on a few pairs of extra batteries, better charger and power supply. I'm hoping I'll get it by the end of this week.
Meanwhile testing is a ***** because I am only capable of charging one battery at a time at only 2 amps.

Anyway, did some more gain testing today, programmed it in the tx. I am experiencing a backwards drift to the right. And it is a little bit hopping in altitude when hovering, a few cm. I am doing my gains in att mode.
I noticed one motor getting really hot, I can still touch and hold it, but it is notably warmer then other motors. ESCs seem to be fine.

Current gains are:

Basic
180
150
110
100

Att
100
100

Will recalibrate and check again for excess vibration tomorrow.

Still more tweaking to do!

 

[Kolb]

I lost a prop in the air, don't know what exactly happened but I lost the bolt as well, so more then likely my fault. Stupid, because I check those things just before every take off... I was able to crash land it (Thank you DJI), lost two props in total. No other visible damage.

Upon full inspection I notice that 2 of my motor mounts suffered some slight damage. The plastic thing that keeps the motor perfectly aligned by 'clicking' in the hole in the boom has snapped off. Does anyone has an idea how I can properly align my motors now they won't stay in the hole?

Edit, I had a spare so the problem is fixed.
For the broken mounts, I think I will try to drill a 3 or 4mm screw through the mounts, superglue it someway, that way I have a lock. Should work I guess.

 

[dazzab]

Edit, I had a spare so the problem is fixed.
For the broken mounts, I think I will try to drill a 3 or 4mm screw through the mounts, superglue it someway, that way I have a lock. Should work I guess.

That's exactly what I did on my Droidworx CX and it worked fine.

 

[CdA D]

I am still waiting on a few pairs of extra batteries, better charger and power supply. I'm hoping I'll get it by the end of this week.
Meanwhile testing is a ***** because I am only capable of charging one battery at a time at only 2 amps.

Anyway, did some more gain testing today, programmed it in the tx. I am experiencing a backwards drift to the right. And it is a little bit hopping in altitude when hovering, a few cm. I am doing my gains in att mode.
I noticed one motor getting really hot, I can still touch and hold it, but it is notably warmer then other motors. ESCs seem to be fine.

Current gains are:

Basic
180
150
110
100

Att
100
100

Will recalibrate and check again for excess vibration tomorrow.

Still more tweaking to do!

Just wondering why you are adjusting the trim in the TX and not your gains? You might have your gains to hight in altitude and that might cause the "hopping". Same with your drift to the back and right. I originally had my gains at 125, 200, 300 & 100, and was getting a bit of hopping. I set it all to default and readjusted them and the hopping went away. I'm at 95, 100,100 & 100. It responds great and is solid. I'm flying an Octo. Just a thought. Also with the props. I use a double nut on mine so that they can't come lose. That's using two nuts and they are tightened to each other. Just an idea. Glad you didn't destroy your aircraft. Any landing in which you can reuse the aircraft is a good landing and any landing that you don't destroy the aircraft is a great landing.

 

[Kolb]

I fixed the hopping around a while ago, it all runs smooth.

Good idea about the nuts, I am gonna try another method, just ordered 50xM6 nylocs.
Still annoyed that this could happen, I double checked it, guess not...