Aeroxcraft Brushless Gopro Gimbal

R

RTRyder

Merlin of Multirotors
SjaakZwart said:
Little sidequestion: what do you guys think of the quality of the landinggear of AeroXcraft (for the F550)? On a dutch forum they say it's quite fragile? I've my doubts because I allso read some positive postings. Maybe I'm gonna buy a set (AeroXcraft landing gear + brushless motors).
Does anyone already have some (flying!) videos so I can judge the quality (and what settings do you have the Gopro set) of the gimbal? I allready saw the video on the website of AeroXcraft!
What are the suggestions for vibration dempers?
Click to expand...

I have an older Aeroxcraft servo driven GoPro gimbal still in use on an MK quad, if it's any indication of how their products are, no need to worry about quality. The servo driven gimbal has been a solid performer since day 1, I would expect no less from any of their other products.

Ken
 


B

Bengit

Guest
CrashMaster said:
Rob has just posted a pdf on his support page with instructions, almost the same as I just posted :- http://www.aeroxcraft.com/content/downloads/uploading_software_martinez_board.pdf

And the issues with the drivers for Windoze 7.
http://www.aeroxcraft.com/content/downloads/martinez_board_windows _7_drivers.pdf
Click to expand...

Yeah, got a mail from aeroxcraft, not keen on the at your own risk comment though. I wish the gimbal would have been supplied with 90deg pitch angle. Could have done with better info/spec when the gimbal was advertised.

Can anyone point me in the direction of a bec that can supply the 7.4v for the gimbal, I want to lose
some weight. My 550 is getting a bit heavy.
 

CrashMaster

CrashMaster

Member
Bengit said:
Yeah, got a mail from aeroxcraft, not keen on the at your own risk comment though. I wish the gimbal would have been supplied with 90deg pitch angle. Could have done with better info/spec when the gimbal was advertised.

Can anyone point me in the direction of a bec that can supply the 7.4v for the gimbal, I want to lose
some weight. My 550 is getting a bit heavy.
Click to expand...
If you can get the software to run you can alter the input voltage but need to alter the input voltage so could just wire to flight batteries on the bottom PCB.

To change the input voltage it's a case of changing the MaxPWM settings for each axis. If you increase the input voltage then you need to decrease maxPWM, and vice-versa.
Click to expand...
 

B

Bengit

Guest
CrashMaster said:
If you can get the software to run you can alter the input voltage but need to alter the input voltage so could just wire to flight batteries on the bottom PCB.
Click to expand...

Thanks for that....have just been out and worked through a few lipos, is anyone else finding that when pitch is max down (40deg-ish) that the roll axis goes out by 5 - 10 deg?
 

CrashMaster

CrashMaster

Member
The other thing I noticed is that if you yaw it dips about 5 degrees towards the yaw and takes about 3-4 seconds to level it's self again.
This will be a learning curve for many why are used to plug and play..... Oh well I am going to put this onto my Xaircraft X650 Pro because the F550 is giving me sooo sooo many headaches I can't really trust it with the gimbal now. I just downgraded to the old version of firmware yesterday and it is fine. DJI have obviously not ironed out the problems and will never admit to having any. Besides the X650 has a WKM and is 10 times more stable.

If I get some time tomorrow I will try and crack the connection problems to the gimbal I am having and am resigned to having to boot into Windoze again. That is 3 times in one week - things are getting really bad.
 

R

rdalemercer

Member
Info@key-photos.co.uk said:
Message from Rob

" Connect the RX output signal (usually white, orange or
yellow) to the A1 RC Pitch connector and 0v (usually black or brown) to
GND. Don't connect the RX power (red) to anything. "

I'm hoping the diag is attached - a first for me

have a BCS hobby store down the road so off to buy long lead. Will let you know how I get on

Also Crashmaster. I lost faith in DJI after replacing motors and esc's and still kept a lateral twitch (hex not me - although I was getting that way) replaced all with iPower and been fine since. Firmware has been good, holds position well, RTH perfect. Have done one informal job with pemission from ATC but now I have fitted an altimeter realise I may have been above the ceiling they gave me . . .
Click to expand...

Before I do something dastardly and fry the board ....

What I am gathering from the diagram (attached) is the for the pitch function to be controlled by the NAZA/WKM, I need to connect the servo lead (without the red power wire) to the F2 port. I currently have it configured this way with the Photoigher gimbal, but it is servo driven instead of being brushless (I'm not certain that it makes any difference, but thought I would note it anyway just in case). I have my pitch control set to one of the sliders on the TX and it seems to work fine with the photohigher.

Is this the same setup? Do I need to do anything else? ....again, being overly cautious due to the "at your own risk' comments.

Thanks for any help / insight you can provide.
Dale.

p.s. I am going to mount this to a DW CX-4 and need to find - or make - an adaptive mount for it to connect securely. AeroXcraft used to have one (it's still on their FB page) but it's no longer on their website -- so I'm thinking that it's been discontinued. I send a post off to them just in case they have one lying around on the shelf that they won't mind parting with.
 

B

Bengit

Guest
rdalemercer said:
Before I do something dastardly and fry the board ....

What I am gathering from the diagram (attached) is the for the pitch function to be controlled by the NAZA/WKM, I need to connect the servo lead (without the red power wire) to the F2 port. I currently have it configured this way with the Photoigher gimbal, but it is servo driven instead of being brushless (I'm not certain that it makes any difference, but thought I would note it anyway just in case). I have my pitch control set to one of the sliders on the TX and it seems to work fine with the photohigher.

Is this the same setup? Do I need to do anything else? ....again, being overly cautious due to the "at your own risk' comments.

Thanks for any help / insight you can provide.
Dale.

p.s. I am going to mount this to a DW CX-4 and need to find - or make - an adaptive mount for it to connect securely. AeroXcraft used to have one (it's still on their FB page) but it's no longer on their website -- so I'm thinking that it's been discontinued. I send a post off to them just in case they have one lying around on the shelf that they won't mind parting with.
Click to expand...

The brushless gimbal does not connect to either the naza or the wkm, its a stand alone unit. If you want variable pitch control you connect an rx channel to the pins on the board as described (I have aux3 connected on my dx8)
 

CrashMaster

CrashMaster

Member
Bengit said:
The brushless gimbal does not connect to either the naza or the wkm, its a stand alone unit. If you want variable pitch control you connect an rx channel to the pins on the board as described (I have aux3 connected on my dx8)
Click to expand...
Yes connect to the board and then directly to the channel on your RX not the NAZA or WKM. Before doing so be very careful to remove the live or red wire from the plugs, I stripped the whole wire off the harness. Then plug into the RX in the normal way. At the other end where you plug to the gimbal board, change the white or yellow wire (signal) to the slot where the red wire has been removed. Then the plug goes over the bottom three pins. The first slot should now be empty the next the signal - yellow or orange wire - and the third from the bottom the ground - black or brown wire. Be very careful when doing this because if you haven't removed the live wire or at least isolated it you may well fry your board and possibly your RX.
 

CrashMaster

CrashMaster

Member
I was looking at the voltage issue and the answer is staring me in the face.... Rather than trying to re-callibrate using 11.1v or 14.8 from the flight batteries the simplest solution is a BEC. Someone did mention this earlier in the thread and I dismissed it in my head because I was looking for the simplest solution through the software but others may well baulk at playing with settings.....
I found this BEC on HobbyKing http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/..._5A_UBEC_2_5S_Lipoly_6_23v_UK_warehouse_.html And it only weighs 7.1g with the wires. I suspect that it would be within the voltage range permissible because a 7.4v lipo will vary from 8.5v fully charged down to 6.6v discharged.
And best of all it is under a fiver although with their postage will be double that.
View attachment 12286
 

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  • UBEC7-2v2-5a.jpg
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R

rdalemercer

Member
CrashMaster said:
Yes connect to the board and then directly to the channel on your RX not the NAZA or WKM. Before doing so be very careful to remove the live or red wire from the plugs, I stripped the whole wire off the harness. Then plug into the RX in the normal way. At the other end where you plug to the gimbal board, change the white or yellow wire (signal) to the slot where the red wire has been removed. Then the plug goes over the bottom three pins. The first slot should now be empty the next the signal - yellow or orange wire - and the third from the bottom the ground - black or brown wire. Be very careful when doing this because if you haven't removed the live wire or at least isolated it you may well fry your board and possibly your RX.
Click to expand...

Thanks CrashMaster and Bengit.
I've read enough about the red (power) wire that I will strip it out of the connector completely - and down to two wires (black/white) just to make certain.

As I am connecting the Rx to NAZA using S-Bus, can I also additionally connect the Gimbal board to the Rx (separate wire)? I've always just used the S-Bus as a 'one wire' connection to the NAZA so this is new for me.

Thank you,
Dale
 

CrashMaster

CrashMaster

Member
You don't connect the gimbal in any way shape or form to the NAZA. It is a NAZA free zone. All you need is power - 7.4V (you can use a small 7.4V lipo or a BEC) and a ground and signal wire to the Receiver channel of your choice if you want to control pitch from your TX.

No wire goes near the NAZA. The gimbal would work hung from the washing line if you connect a 7.4v Lipo to it and started moving the line about.
 

R

RCJardin

Not so new and improving
CrashMaster said:
I was looking at the voltage issue and the answer is staring me in the face.... Rather than trying to re-callibrate using 11.1v or 14.8 from the flight batteries the simplest solution is a BEC. Someone did mention this earlier in the thread and I dismissed it in my head because I was looking for the simplest solution through the software but others may well baulk at playing with settings.....
I found this BEC on HobbyKing http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/..._5A_UBEC_2_5S_Lipoly_6_23v_UK_warehouse_.html And it only weighs 7.1g with the wires. I suspect that it would be within the voltage range permissible because a 7.4v lipo will vary from 8.5v fully charged down to 6.6v discharged.
And best of all it is under a fiver although with their postage will be double that.


Will this UBEC handle the amperage for the gimbal motors?
View attachment 15603
Click to expand...

Will this UBEC handle the amperage of the motors?
 


R

rdalemercer

Member
CrashMaster said:
You don't connect the gimbal in any way shape or form to the NAZA. It is a NAZA free zone. All you need is power - 7.4V (you can use a small 7.4V lipo or a BEC) and a ground and signal wire to the Receiver channel of your choice if you want to control pitch from your TX.

No wire goes near the NAZA. The gimbal would work hung from the washing line if you connect a 7.4v Lipo to it and started moving the line about.
Click to expand...

Oops. I guess I replied to the wrong thread (this is what happens when I try to do it on my mobile device!!).

Anyway --- I've read enough about the red (power) wire that I will strip it out of the connector completely - and down to two wires (black/white) just to make certain.

As I am connecting the Rx to NAZA using S-Bus, can I also additionally connect the Gimbal board to the Rx (separate wire)?

I've always just used the S-Bus as a 'one wire' connection to the NAZA so this is new for me.

Dale.
 

P

Phil550

Member
CrashMaster said:
I haven't asked the question of Rob but the motors are not driving props and 5A is a lot for something which is moving a system which, in theory is balanced. The power is used to maintain that balance and not lift a heavy weight. If there is a techie out there they may be able to work it out. I guess the pull will only be about 1.5 per motor max.

The motors used are these: http://www.aeroxcraft.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=43
Click to expand...

I flew my 550 with the new gimbal tonight - standard settings and the video looks smooth - I'll post a sample when I've edited it.
If it's any help, the gimbal was powered by a 950 mah Nano-tech and after 2 flights of 8 mins each, the voltage of the Nano-tech had dropped from 8.4v to 8.04v.
 




CrashMaster

CrashMaster

Member
Smooth flight.
Are those the settings Rob sent to you? If not what settings are you using in the setup so when/if I get into it I can have a play too.
 

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