New build and question about lipo connectors

cbuk

Member
Hi
I'm part way through a new Skyjib X4 build and need a little advice. I will be running MN4014-11 motors with 15” beech props from two parallel 6S lipos. Mainly, I will be carrying a GH3 for video but also a NikonD800E for still aerial photography. I will probably be using the besteady one gimbal, which come in at just over a kg without camera. I was tempted with the zenmuse for GH3 but the limitation with respect to lenses and filters has steered me away from this.


My question comes down to connectors for the lipos. I've always used HK lipos (either nanotech or turnigy) and although they are arguably not the best, I have never had problems with them and will use them for this build. I plan to use two 6000 mah 25C nanotechs; these come with 4mm HXT type bullets. Are 4mm bullets sufficient? From a practical point of view, I would like to use 4mm bullets as this is what I have always used. I bought some XT90's recently, but they are so damned tight (even with silicone lube spray) that separating them is incredably hard and frustrating and will be a real PITA when wire are soldered on.


HK rate their 4mm gold bullets at around 90A so my thinking is that these will be adequate. The spec sheet for the MN4014s with relevant voltage and prop size suggests each will draw a maximum of around 14 or 15A at full throttle. Two lipos for eight motors means each connector should only have to take up to around 60A max, well below the 90A spec for the 4mm bullets. I guess the only problem come if I get a lipo failure and one lipo then has to feed all eight motor; the current passing from the surviving lipo could be over 100A.


Have I got my sums right or am I barking mad? Do most folk use XT90s? I much prefer bullets but obviously dont want to put my beautiful new craft at risk.


Any input would be really appreciated.
Chris
 


cbuk

Member
Thanks for the reply @jes1111, I see you're not a fan of bullets! I understand your fear that they can loosen with vibration but at the other end of the spectrum, I worry that if I use XT90's I wont be able to get the bloody things apart in the field. May


Interesting thread you linked to...thanks. I think it confirms to me my “fag packet” calculations are correct and that I'm approaching the wiring with the correct mindset. Also an intersting concept in using more than two lipos, but I think like one poster said, I doubt there is room on the Droidworx PDB pads for 4 10AWG wires, would certainly be a tight squeeze. I dont have the PDB in front of me at the moment but will check the size of the pads tomorrow.
 

Quinton

Active Member
You prob could get the 4 10AWG wires soldered on there, but the real problem is getting it all strapped down together with the standoffs etc.
I am just doing the Skyjib 6 so wouldn't even like to try it with 8 of everything under there.
I am at a standstill at the moment, as I bought the Skyjib 6 the same week they released the Skyjib 6 Ti Super and am waiting on the new parts to upgrade
Am a bit peeved off that I didn't have the choice to purchase it altogether in the first place, have emailed DW about this without any reply so far.

The new 500mm booms will suit much better than the 410mm ones, as the motor cable lengths will be much better, glad I didn't shorten and it can take up to 17" props which will be interesting.
Maybe I should just finish off, then compare with the new setup once it comes.

This is my first real build and as always, after you are close to finishing you think to yourself..wish I had done that instead, so now maybe is the best time to start again.
The carbon fibre is quite sharp, and there's too many places for the wires to rub against things, so will end up changing a few things this time.
Is it not a good thing sometimes that its hard to get connections apart, especially the most important ones like lipos.
Am still going to check those powerpoles out though.

The Besteady looks great, problem is they dont even have a UK reseller, considering they are UK based, and I have emailed them a couple of times and not had a reply..I hate that!
 

cbuk

Member
You prob could get the 4 10AWG wires soldered on there, but the real problem is getting it all strapped down together with the standoffs etc.
I am just doing the Skyjib 6 so wouldn't even like to try it with 8 of everything under there.
I am at a standstill at the moment, as I bought the Skyjib 6 the same week they released the Skyjib 6 Ti Super and am waiting on the new parts to upgrade
Am a bit peeved off that I didn't have the choice to purchase it altogether in the first place, have emailed DW about this without any reply so far.

The new 500mm booms will suit much better than the 410mm ones, as the motor cable lengths will be much better, glad I didn't shorten and it can take up to 17" props which will be interesting.
Maybe I should just finish off, then compare with the new setup once it comes.

This is my first real build and as always, after you are close to finishing you think to yourself..wish I had done that instead, so now maybe is the best time to start again.
The carbon fibre is quite sharp, and there's too many places for the wires to rub against things, so will end up changing a few things this time.
Is it not a good thing sometimes that its hard to get connections apart, especially the most important ones like lipos.
Am still going to check those powerpoles out though.

The Besteady looks great, problem is they dont even have a UK reseller, considering they are UK based, and I have emailed them a couple of times and not had a reply..I hate that!

Absolutely, but when I say hard I mean really really hard. Like two pair of pliers and even then to get the leverage its hard. Doing it in the field with a lipo on one end and the leads to the PDB on the other would be a nightmare and to have to do it twice for ever 10 minutes of flight or so fills me with dread! Hence the preference to stay with the HXT type 4mm bullets that I'm used to. I'm not sure why the XT90's I have are so tight. They are the first batch I have bought so have nothing to compare with. I've used silicone lube spray from halfords but they're still very tight.
I understand that bullets are inherently less secure than other types of connectors but from my experience the tighness of the fit has never been a problem. Whenever disconnecting the bullets, they make a pop/plop sound as the seal and vacuum are broken; a bit like the sound when flicking your finger from the inside of you cheek. My main concern is whether 4mm bullets are sufficient for the expected currents. The lipos (6S/6000/25C) I was looking at come with 4mm bullets so I'm assuming they would be sufficient. It would be pretty dumb putting underrated connectors onto anything electrical, but with hobbyking you cant be too sure!
 

Quinton

Active Member
Absolutely, but when I say hard I mean really really hard. Like two pair of pliers and even then to get the leverage its hard.

Something not quite right there, it should be quite easy to get it apart by hand, just wiggling it.
When you were soldering the connectors did you solder with a pair of male/female together to stop the pins moving in the plastic?
 

cbuk

Member
I havent soldered the connectors yet. I was just testing the snugness of the fit prior to soldering; since realising there could be problems down the line I've put the task of soldering all the connectors on hold. You know how this build process is! Research, question and build in one never ending iterative cycle with a fair amount of "on hold" time thrown in for good measure!
 

Quinton

Active Member
I havent soldered the connectors yet. I was just testing the snugness of the fit prior to soldering; since realising there could be problems down the line I've put the task of soldering all the connectors on hold. You know how this build process is! Research, question and build in one never ending iterative cycle with a fair amount of "on hold" time thrown in for good measure!

Yep :)
It can keep you awake at night.
Why would you want to try and fly it anyhow, the fun is in the building.
 

jes1111

Active Member
Something not quite right there, it should be quite easy to get it apart by hand, just wiggling it.
Agreed - possibly the tolerance problem on bullet-type connectors that I was referring to in the other thread. Some will be tight, some will be loose - even from the same factory :(

This also speaks to one of the issues I have with most of the RC connectors - you can't tell which ones are "original" and which are "knock-offs" - not a comfortable situation for a vital component on an expensive rig ;)
 

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