Mikrokopter Hexa XL frame review?

Motopreserve

Drone Enthusiast
Hey folks. I've been scouring the web for reviews on the Hexa XL frames. I have a newly acquired MK 2.1 with all the trimmings, and will be looking to buy a frame soon. I've seen some mentions of bad vibrations for video on the MK Hexa frames, but can't determine whether that was from the older version, or both.

They seem reasonably priced (comparatively - with the next step up being double the price), but I'd like some real-world feedback from anyone who's flying it. I will be looking to carry a Sony Nex5n with 3 axis gimbal. Total additional payload should come in under 1kg.

Thanks!

scott
 

Hi Motopreserve,

I fly a Hexa MK frame with some aditional stifining components, like 4 center plates instead of 2 and a square 8mme x 25 mm balsa wood piece that I insert in the arms.
I´ve been flying mk frames for 3 years nearly and they are all good if you balance your props motors etc...
This video was shot with MK okto XL and MK HIGHSIGHT2, https://vimeo.com/56944551 Im getting identical results with Hexa..
Regards.
 

Motopreserve

Drone Enthusiast
Hi Motopreserve,

I fly a Hexa MK frame with some aditional stifining components, like 4 center plates instead of 2 and a square 8mme x 25 mm balsa wood piece that I insert in the arms.
I´ve been flying mk frames for 3 years nearly and they are all good if you balance your props motors etc...
This video was shot with MK okto XL and MK HIGHSIGHT2, https://vimeo.com/56944551 Im getting identical results with Hexa..
Regards.

Thanks so much SA. Do you insert the wood dowels all the way through the arms? Also, is this the newer XL version or the older one? I know you mention square wood - so I'm assuming you have the new one? Seems they went from round booms to square at some point, based on the photos I find. Also based on pics, seems like the added center plates would be a welcomed mod for both rigidity and stacking electronics.

EDIT: hey! I've seen that video before. Great stuff. Seems like maybe you should have picked a place a little more scenic :)
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Thanks so much SA. Do you insert the wood dowels all the way through the arms? Also, is this the newer XL version or the older one? I know you mention square wood - so I'm assuming you have the new one? Seems they went from round booms to square at some point, based on the photos I find. Also based on pics, seems like the added center plates would be a welcomed mod for both rigidity and stacking electronics.

EDIT: hey! I've seen that video before. Great stuff. Seems like maybe you should have picked a place a little more scenic :)

Thanks aahha!its easy to shoot over here ;)
The dowels are aprox 25 cm long, they dont go all the way but no harm if they did..even better probably.
I think MK arms have always been square? The option you get now is to purchase 15mm instead of 10mm tubes.
y actual frame is a bit customized, Im posting a pic here,this shape is very eficient and you get good prop clearence moving forwardsView attachment 18239View attachment 18240

Also adapting the BL under the prop wash diminishes the temperature , Im flying a sony CX730 and they dont go above 30C,it use to be 70C with the mk distribution board..
 

Attachments

  • DSC_0066[1].jpg
    DSC_0066[1].jpg
    137.8 KB · Views: 247
  • DSC_0064[1].jpg
    DSC_0064[1].jpg
    145.9 KB · Views: 234

Motopreserve

Drone Enthusiast
Thanks for the pics. Maybe I saw photos called "mikrokopter Hexa" that were actually only MK electronics?

the rig I bought has the ESCs already soldered to the MK PDB - but I can see the advantage of the cooling out on the boom. So you add caps to the wires for running the ESC - PDB longer? That seems to be a debate that's coming up quote a bit lately.

The he frame seems to be the most reasonable that I've looked at - and if the vibes aren't an issue (even if a simple mod like dowels is necessary) it's hard to beat.

The he other frame that I've looked at, that I'm obsessed with right now is the Culcan with a mantis arm for camera shot clearance. But that's a whole different price range... :)
 

No worries,
I don´t use PDB, I solder all reds,all blacks, all C and all D and straigh to the FC & battery.
If the props and motors are balanced you shouldn't get any vibes on the image¡
Dunno what the debate is about but since I've rigged the bl's like this I've had 0 IC2 problems and the temp,the temp are magic under the boom¡ the condensator legs must be all the way through with a bit of glue under,I use gun glue.
For the shape you will need okto central plates in order to use these angles..
 

Top