Dji frames
- Thread starter rwilabee
- Start date
olof
Osprey
I use blue thread threadlock (locktite) it can be taken apart, the gel is very good and easy to control. The liquid is OK but can be messy.
Dont use RED it is almost impossible to take apart. Green may be OK but you want to check screws often with green.
Try to be neat adhesive eats plastic, dont use on props.
Dont use RED it is almost impossible to take apart. Green may be OK but you want to check screws often with green.
Try to be neat adhesive eats plastic, dont use on props.
Roger Ramjet
Member
IMHO it is better NOT to use anything on the screws. I use them as indicators for potentially dangerous situations regarding vibrations or imbalance in flights loads. That is to say that I recheck all the screws every 30 flights or so. If they all require a quarter turn, them all is well but if only one is very loose... I will further investigate. That was the initial idea anyhow. As it turned out, I had to retighten a minute amount after the first 10 flights or so and they have stayed OK after more than 100 flights so far. I will keep that check however, not only because it is a good practice but it also contributes to your good safe feeling with your machine. Do not forget the motor screws, they are the one than are more suceptible to loosen up (and they do...)
Sound Advantage
Member
I wanted to remove my top plate to check the components underneath. I'm having a hard time removing them. I'm not sure if they were put in with Loctite or not. What size Allen are they and can you just buy replacement screws somewhere?
thanks
thanks
DesJardins
Member
You can buy replacmemt sets at RC-drones I believe
DJI uses pretty good screws and there are enough of the screws on the arms to prevent a total failure. I've used blue loctite before without problems. If you plan on converting your build/s you may want to consider whether it's worth it. You may end up stripping the heads of the screws if it's too secure.
As far as props... I used lock nuts (nuts with a plastic ring inside to secure my props. The vibration won't shake them loose.
As far as props... I used lock nuts (nuts with a plastic ring inside to secure my props. The vibration won't shake them loose.
DucktileMedia
Drone Enthusiast
I accidentally used green one time and i had to heat up the bolts with a soldering iron to remove them!
Nuttzzy
Member
Yeah green is stronger than red. The red I took out with a drill burned my finger cause the friction coming out. Heated up that much
Beep, Beep, Honk, Honk, Over and Out Rotorhead
olof
Osprey
Different brands of threadlock use different colors.
The brand I use, Locktite, green is for easy removal, blue removable but quite strong, red permanent. I have used this brand for over 40 years now, and I am really used to this color scheme.
Here is a quote from a different forum:
"
Posted 19 June 2006 - 06:00 PM
#1
Due to some recent repairs/mods, I read a lot of threads talking about the color of threadlocker to use for specific applications, red or blue etc. I think a lot of guys (including myself) have used the words "locktite" and "threadlocker" interchangeably, by mistake!
Example: The best thread I found on the Primary Nut fix advised to use red locktite. However..
"Locktite" brand RED is a permanent, non-removable threadlocker.
"Three Bond" brand uses BLACK 1303 as their permanent.
"Locktite" brand has several BLUE products, 222 is a low strength type and 242 is a medium strength.
"Three Bond" brand RED 1333B is a medium removable type and is equivalent to "Locktite" 242.
"Three Bond" brand BLUE 1342 is their low strength.
So although some of the colors match, some do not. Check the brand, color and application before use.
"Three Bond" also advertises that all of their products protect against corrosion and are not affected by oil. "locktite" only has a few products not affected by oil. (clean the threads anyway)
Almost all of the web sites I checked advised to use the permanent type only in applications where the nut will never need to be removed.
I used "Three Bond" RED 1333B (medium bearing and stud lock) on the CS nut, primary nut and the starter clutch bolts.
I do not have much experience with these products, so chime in if you have had different experiences. Is the permanent type better for any of these applications? "
Bottom line is read the labels.
The brand I use, Locktite, green is for easy removal, blue removable but quite strong, red permanent. I have used this brand for over 40 years now, and I am really used to this color scheme.
Here is a quote from a different forum:
"
- [h=1]Zcop[/h]
Posted 19 June 2006 - 06:00 PM
#1
Due to some recent repairs/mods, I read a lot of threads talking about the color of threadlocker to use for specific applications, red or blue etc. I think a lot of guys (including myself) have used the words "locktite" and "threadlocker" interchangeably, by mistake!
Example: The best thread I found on the Primary Nut fix advised to use red locktite. However..
"Locktite" brand RED is a permanent, non-removable threadlocker.
"Three Bond" brand uses BLACK 1303 as their permanent.
"Locktite" brand has several BLUE products, 222 is a low strength type and 242 is a medium strength.
"Three Bond" brand RED 1333B is a medium removable type and is equivalent to "Locktite" 242.
"Three Bond" brand BLUE 1342 is their low strength.
So although some of the colors match, some do not. Check the brand, color and application before use.
"Three Bond" also advertises that all of their products protect against corrosion and are not affected by oil. "locktite" only has a few products not affected by oil. (clean the threads anyway)
Almost all of the web sites I checked advised to use the permanent type only in applications where the nut will never need to be removed.
I used "Three Bond" RED 1333B (medium bearing and stud lock) on the CS nut, primary nut and the starter clutch bolts.
I do not have much experience with these products, so chime in if you have had different experiences. Is the permanent type better for any of these applications? "
Bottom line is read the labels.