Tips for First Few Flights please

After the first battery finished charging, here's how it reads:
1638 power
25.193 V

I am charging the second battery now. When done charging, I will go do a 3-minute hover.
 

Tomstoy2

Member
It detected low voltage and properly decided to come back home.

Deselecting voltage control in assistant will prevent that. When the voltage gets low with it deselected it will just land, but you still have control, so you can try to fly it back home.
It's easy to know when the battery is low as all of a sudden it will take a hell of a lot more throttle to fly.

With it on, and the values properly selected, it will try to come home, if it has enough juice left. Once the second voltage setting kicks in though it will just land.

Stay out of manual mode, at least until you are really, really comfortable with it. Manual mode, think sport flying. That is not what your ship is really designed for. It's a camera ship.

Now, let's say you hit failsafe accidentally, like you did the first time. You can take back control by first, turn off failsafe and then toggle out of whatever flight mode you were in.
This then cancels out failsafe allowing you to continue to fly.
Just remember, you need to do both, in order.

The vid looked great! You got balls of steel to do all that the real first flight, good job.
Unfortunately, now you are hooked for good!!!
 

The vid looked great! You got balls of steel to do all that the real first flight, good job.
Unfortunately, now you are hooked for good!!!
Thanks, and you are right, I am hooked now.

I knew I wasn't ready for manual mode yet. On the Parrot, it allowed me to change max tilt, max speed, max acceleration, right from the app. When I set it for max 10 degree tilt and max acceleration at 1000ms per second, it was barely moving and super safe. Change it to 20 degrees and 1500, still somewhat safe as long as I don't jerk it like a madman, and faster. But set it to 30 degrees and 2000ms/s, and it's easy to knock out of the air by speeding up and slowing down too fast while turning *at all*.


OK, so your main gripe about the low voltage meter making it return home is that it returns home rather than just lands? That's not so bad, I don't want it landing on a neighbor's house or something...
 


Good that you fly FPV because my next sets of questions will be about cameras and goggles and monitors and stuff.

I told Tony I wanted video downlink capabilities. I don't know if this craft came with them, or is just capable of accepting them as upgrades. If I don't have downlink capabilities, what do I need to do to get them? What goggles will I want?

Also, I ordered the Hero 3 Black, which has a firmware update coming out in a week or so that does video downlink to your iPad, which I could use for my FPV while flying, right?

What about gimbal control? I want to move it around while flying, do I have enough "controls" with the DEVO-10 for that? Can it be split up to two people (pilot/camera)?
 

3-minute flight test done. Although, in GPS mode, it began to go through the "Home and Land" routine again immediately after takeoff. Something must be wonky with how the craft is measuring battery life. Am I just supposed to be plugging in the primary plugs to the craft, or the white (balance) plugs also? (I see no where to plug them)

Charging battery after 3-minute flight test, will tell you results soon

I couldn't do a GPS hover during the 3-minute flight test, had to do an Attitude hover, otherwise it kept wanting to return home.
 
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With fresh charged battery, go out and fly for 3 minutes then land.

Recharge the batterys, and see how many mah's are put back into a battery, ( 1 will be slightly more than the other ).

Take the largest number and divide by 3, this gives you how many mah's per minute.

Using a 5000mah battery, (1), you then have 4000mah's of safe power.

Divide 4000mah's by the number for mah's per minute and this gives you the amount of safe flight time available to you.

Set the timer on your transmitter to count down to warn you when the time is up.
First battery finished charging after the 3-minute hover:
CHG: 17:37, 00571
LP 0mA 25.199V

571/3 = 191mah/hr for the first battery. 4000/191 is 20.94 minutes of flight time????

But this is when holding it fairly still. Moving it around is going to eat up more juice, right?

Can that be right? Over 20 minutes of flight time????
 

Tomstoy2

Member
My, my, you are hooked, indeed!

Ok, starting with the first post.

Check your reciept of whatTony sent you, see if he did send you a video tansmitter.

The GP3 will work for fpv, but the problem is, it wil be on a stabilized gimbal. What you want is the camera fixed on the airframe so you you can tell if you are leaning.

What most of us do is to get a good fpv dedicated camera and mount it onto the frame. Somethingl ike this; http://www.securitycamera2000.com/p...AWOLF-HD-CCTV-Mini-Camera-2.8mm-Lens-OSD.html

Then you want to decide on a video transmitter and reciever. Here in the USA the most popular are 5.8ghz and 1.3ghz. The difference is, 5.8 gives you a better quality picture, but 1.3 gives you better range and can burn through a few trees and such that get between you and the aircraft.

Considering you are already thinking of toying with way points I would recommend the 1.3.

Now, you have to know that manufacturers of these vtx's use different channels, so it's important to have both the reciever and transmitter the same manufacturer, not mix and match unless you are sure that they do indeed match well.

Immerson is probably the most common, along with Bostec. I would recommend Immerson as you can get them easily and are very common just about everywhere. I use Bostec on 5.8, but I have a bad knee and have learned to never fly farther than I am willing to walk.

Ok, so now you must look at how much power they put out on the transmitter. This is measured in mW. The idea here is to never have the transmitter put out a larger range than your radio, so you will loose sight on your system before you loose control. This gives you opportunity to turn around when the video signal drops out and get back into range again.
Considering this, there are ways to boost the transmission of your radio signal by adapting a uhf system to your radio. This will push you out miles and miles.

You have a Devo system, from Walkera. I'm not familiar with this system at all. I have no idea how far you can fly out and still maintain contact with Devo. I use Futaba, and it's good to about a mile.

So let's start basic, not changing out your radio or modding it to uhf, I would assume you can consider a safe range of about 1/2 mile.
At this range 200mW will give you the range you need to match to your radio as long as you have better antenna's. 300mW is common, too, so let's assume your radio can push out to 1 mile, then 300mW for the vtx will be good.
Something like this; http://www.readymaderc.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=11_30_38&products_id=1016

Now, you need a reciever. These come in a single reciever and what is called diversity, with is multiple recievers. Diversity will give you the ability to get the best signal back from take off to destination if you mix the antenna's.
For a reciever, look into something like this, which is a single reciever; http://www.readymaderc.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=11_34_44&products_id=911

Then you need antenna's. The dipole antennas suck. For a basic system, like I'm describing, you want to look at something like this; http://www.readymaderc.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=11_45_52_100&products_id=552

Then, you need a monitor, or goggles. Both have their good and bad points. Goggles gives you a nice large display to see, but is hard when you need to take them off to see what the aircraft is doing. A monitor is great for when you need to see the aircraft, but the size is kind of small.
If you go with a monitor, you can get larger ones, something I'm looking into myself, like what truckers use in their rigs that run off of 12 volts.

With Immerson, Fatshark goggles are most common. Dominator series was the best of the Fatsharks, but they have since come out with their Agressor series.
I know nothing about Fatshark, I use AIO goggles, which will not work with Immerson.

That's about the basics, except for some cables and adapters. Just don't expect an hd quality screen, it's all analog, so think about ntsc quality.

From then on, things get as complicated as you want.

There are a lot of manufacturers of fpv tx's and the price varries widely. Lawmate is a good system, if you don't mind the price tag.

As for your gimbal, it will hook up to your WKM to stabilize, but the problem is WKM doesn't really do a good job of it. For my use, I'm happy, but if you are looking to sell pics or vids, then a better stabilizer will become necessary. Radian and a few others do a good job, but there really seems to be problems with all of them. Your radio does have enough channels to do whatever you want with the gimbal.

No, I don't think your flight time is correct. You must have done something wrong. Redo it again. You already know that with your first flight in the park you went into low voltage landing at 10 minutes, that sounds about right.

As for the other battery set, I suspect you have a bad battery. It happens. Probably worked just fine when Tony tested the system but something happened inbetween.
From your pics, it looks like those are Turnigy batterys? Not uncommon with Turnigy. I've got Turnigy myself and have lost more than I care to think about. I have since gone to their Nano-Tec series and have been pretty happy.

If you do start flying way out there, fpv or way point, then I would recommend getting a hell of a lot better quality of battery. GenAce is pretty good.
 

You said my test may have been the cause of my good numbers, so I went and did a second one just now. 10.5 minutes, results:
60:53 to charge 2064 mah
2064/10.5 = 196.57
4000 / 196.57 is 20.35

That sounds like ~20 minutes of flight time. And I did a lot of maneuvering this time ... had it going up a couple hundred meters, down the street a block over, used home-then-land to get it back ...

However, in GPS mode, it still likes to return back home even when the battery is fresh.
 

Tomstoy2

Member
Damn! At those numbers, then it will go 20 minutes!
After you get the landing gear/gimbal and camera installed, it will drop, but not by too much.
That's really an efficient system.
Turn off the voltage monitor on the assistant, that will get rid of the issue of coming home all the time. Set yor timer to 15 minutes, try it, if still ok I would then set it to 18 minutes and that would give you a couple minutes to come back home when the buzzer goes off without going below the 20% rule.

I got mine set at 14 minutes and still have about 1 1/2 minutes to land.

It's coming back home because the figures are set too high in voltage monitor. Don't ask me how to adjust, I never use it.
 

Second battery took more mah. 2224. Still, 2224/10.5=211.81. 211.81 is 18.88 minutes. And again, this was with maneuvering and flight.

I will do the next one in the morning, at 15 minutes, then see how many mah. I will do 2 tests at the same length, 1 test with batteries 1 and 2, another with batteries 3 and 4, and see if they are about the same.
 

I had it flying earlier, during the 10.5 minute test... I had it a few hundred feet up and thought I would bring it back down, like to 50 feet or so .... but I kept dropping the throttle and it wasn't really coming down. I think the wind was providing it a lot of boost at the time.

What can I do to make it come down when I want it to, but the wind is holding it up? I felt like if I dropped the throttle any more, it would fall below the 10% threshold and shut the engines off, then it would be in freefall. I don't want to try to remember to do the CSC then throttle up while it's in freefall ... so what's the best way to get good at losing altitude safely?
 

Tomstoy2

Member
It's probably hanging up there because right now it is so light. That will change when the gimbal goes on.

You can try different props, one size smaller.

I'm sure Tony sized the props for an all up weight configuration.

In the trans, cal, screen in assistant, if the intelligent is checked, it will not stop throttles if you go below 10%.
 

I just did a 15-minute flight. 2902 was the mah needed to recharge the battery. 2902/15=193.46. 4000/193.46 = 20.67 minutes!

Again, still no gimbal or camera.

This time, I followed your lead and blew leaves around at the park. Cut some nice swaths in the giant pile of leaves under the trees. Plenty of leaves blew up in to the copter and got mulched (they were very dry) - lots of powdered leaves flying around the copter, quite the sight.

I played with gaining altitude, then dropping altitude. I got to the point I could send it up 50 meters, then bring it back down to a few inches off the ground in just a moment. It takes learning how to cut the throttle to 20%, then slide it slowly up from 20 to 50% when it's getting near the ground. If I take it below 20, I might take it below the 10 where the engines cut off on accident. And at 20 it's falling pretty fast anyhow.

I think next time I will try a 16 minute flight and record the mah. A previous flight showed a "max" of 18.8 minutes, although this last test really did have a LOT of maneuvering in it. Maybe it was fighting more wind when it showed the max of 18.8.
 

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